I took the bottom of the carb off tonight without taking it off the bike, took the float off and the needle valve body and blew some compressed air through it. Also checked the float valve adjustment, just cause I was there.
I've crossed out a bunch of stuff (I think--see below). Could it be that the float adjustment needs to be fixed? I did adjust it somewhat when I took the carb apart; the distance from the bottom of the float to the bottom of the carb as detailed in the Clymer was too much. But that wouldn't make sense, cause it ran better after I did that (until it started leaking gas again); before I adjusted it, it ran too lean, and I had to give it gas just to keep it running. And that wouldn't explain why it ran great for the first week or so after I took the carb apart. And unless if I'm measuring the wrong thing, it's perfectly within the limits.
Did I maybe just miss something? Maybe some tiny passageway in the carb is clogged and I neglected to blow air through it when I had it apart? The float valve needle and needle valve body seemed pretty clean and in good condition to me, but the thing's still leaking fuel. Here's what happens: I start it with the choke halfway out, after about 30 seconds put choke in, let it run a little to warm up, it dies on its own. I restart it, but it won't start without me giving it gas, so I do. Next thing I know, gas is pouring out of the vent hoses.
Does it matter if I'm on an incline or if I'm letting it idle while it's leaning on the kickstand? Maybe a dumb question, but I'm still learning.
bill67 wrote on 09/12/09 at 06:52:15: Best is to not take carb apart and use Sea-Foam in you gas,It cleans and lubes you carb.
That was what I did when I first got the bike, cause it was running super rough and backfiring as soon as I gave it gas. Sea Foam fixed that, but then it started leaking fuel after it would warm up, which is why I took the carb apart the first time.
Serowbot wrote on 09/12/09 at 07:36:35:I checked the vacuum line right after it started leaking fuel, and it was free of gas.
verslagen1 wrote on 09/12/09 at 07:43:26:Sounds like your float is either sticking alittle or you need a new float valve.
Sticking float can be delt with by a percussive adjustment (rap on the side of the carb with a plastic handle)
I tried tapping on the side of it with a wrench. Didn't help.
What if the space where the float pivots is too tight? That would make it stick, right? What else would make it stick, and what else would fix it?
verslagen1 wrote on 09/12/09 at 07:43:26:when you took it apart did the tip of the valve have a groove in it? I have one like that with no problem but if it's more than that like a crack running thru the sealling surface than's its time to replace.
Nope, the valve looked nearly perfect from what I could tell.
qn7qcw7 wrote on 09/12/09 at 20:05:55:A rare occurence, but float itself could possibly have hole causing it to sink. Was more common in years past, but I agree with using Seafoam first (As directed on can). Boofer
I don't think it has a hole in it. I tossed it in the can of carb cleaner with everything else, and it stayed afloat the whole time, and didn't have any liquid in it.
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