Item one is to repair known issues.  If you have a warped banged up triple tree, loosen straighten and repair it.   Ditto for the swingarm and rear axle and the rear wheel.  

Fix what is know to be wrong as well as it can be fixed.  Everything you fix should remove some of the wobble.

Since the witless marks are not accurate anymore' you can put a long straightedge to the rear wheel, assuming the wheel spokes are properly adjusted, and compare its' parrallel to the countershaft sprocket that has a straight edge along it.  When they are as straight as you can get them, note the witless marks and WRITE DOWN the difference. Apply this difference whenever adjusting your belt or chain.

Phelonius

Trying to use a rear wheel based static alignment (a straight edge of any kind) to align a warped frame off of bent components is problematical as all you get is a temporary static alignment of the parts in that particular array/position.   Plus, with a slightly warped rear wheel, what the heck exactly are you indicating off of as your origin?

I am searching for an easy-to-do dynamic method, a running down the road methodology that achieves a functional alignment of some somewhat warped components.

Today is try #2 to get the front and rear wheels running in the same axis.  All I did was adjust the rear wheel, moving it with the axle adjusters as if I was adjusting the error seen on the front wheel/handlebar's direction of bias when running straight down the road.

Result was to "straighten up" the front wheel's running down the road orientation.  Moving the alignment of the rear to correct the cocking/bias that the front was running down the road proves that the rear tire does indeed "control" how the front tire runs down the road.

My tires may not be following each other exactly, but by golly they are finally running parallel to each other and are running in the same parallel axis orientation more closely than they did before.

Speed wobble is decreased in severity by about half and it moved up 5-10 mph to 67-70 as the speed of onset.   This is not fixed, but it is improved and it shows I am maybe chasing the right rabbit.

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Now, let's try to get that rear wheel trued up even better -- another go at the spokes is in order.  

Also, let's tighten up all the triple tree allen heads and top caps on the off chance that something is loose.   Ditto for the swingarm cross bolt.

Oldfeller:

Sorry about your bike but not all is lost yet and
you where not sitting on it  , you have a working
engine and all electrical components in top shape,
I would suggest  that you replace frame/swing-arm
and all other inexpensive but crucial components
so you can have a safe bike.

There is a company called PINWALL which
specializes in selling bikes "by the part"
and has a bunch of savage parts at DIRT
CHEAP PRICES i.e frame $49, swingarm $9.99,
etc; wheels and stuff are also cheap but front end
is not.

Good luck, here is the link:
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/PinWall-Cycle-Parts-Inc__W0QQ_sidZ12458664?_nkw=s...

Throwing a bunch of new parts at the issue willy nilly isn't the plan -- developing a method to allow use of imperfect components is the desired goal.

Nothing about the front end or the swingarm was bolt loose -- all fasteners were tight and visually were oriented as expected.  All fasteners were brought up to print max torque.

Justin, you assemble the triple tree, tighten the top caps, tighten the axle/wheel/shocks into a rigid unit (allowing the wheel and axle to self-align the lower portion of the assembly) then you tighten the clamp allen bolts on the lower arm of the triple tree to put the entire front end assembly into a rigid relationship.  Then you check tighten everything again.

The triple tree is self-aligning (provided that the tree portion isn't warped that is).  A fork brace only serves to make the lower shock housings both move together as a fixed pair and it helps keep the lower forks from flexing quite as badly as they normally are able to flex/distort going over bumps, etc.

=================

My post crash rear rim was out .240" laterally and a bit more than .120" radially with one nice .055" deep rim dent when I first started spoke tuning the first time.  It was messed up ....

After two (2) several hour long sessions at the spokes reading a mounted dial indicator squishing out the damage I have the radial down to .030" and the lateral down to .035".  This includes the remainder of the dented section.

Lateral run out measured on the rubber tire is .025" worst case, so the rubber is running fairly true at this point in time.  Radial r/o will tire wear to approaching zero, so most folks don't sweat a little radial r/o on the rubber as they know it is only temporary.  I couldn't reach around to measure it from the swing arm, so I really don't know what it is right now anyway.

Visually, the tire is running much much better than it did post crash.

The Clymer manual lists the desired wheel tuning results as variation to be less than .080" (or 2mm).  This seems high to me as the internet says you tune newly laced rims to .020" true in both axis.  This seems to be doable with new stuff and seems in line with good workmanship on newly laced wheels.

But another place lists 1/16" (.060") as the tuning tolerance goal for a spoke wheel assembly.  Go figure.  I meet two out of the three, so I am gonna run it and see what it does.

==========

Ride report tomorrow.   My back is aching from bending over the spokes so long today, so I am going to call it a night.

I have to agree with Boule'tard. If my bike gets hit badly enough to bend frame, swing arm, etc, I will file a claim with the insurance and try to get it called a total. Somehow, I do not think I would be capable of trusting a bent/straightened frame.

Oldfeller--FSO wrote on 09/08/09 at 02:57:44:

I am interested to get educated how you did the spoke tuning so well, as I have a front wheel that needs the same work done.