You should be able to do the first maintenance, gain a little confidence (but don't get too cocky), and eventually do anything on this bike.  You need to plan your work.  A service manual is a must:  either Clymer's or the Factory Service Manual, or ideally both.  I have the Clymer's in a PDF.  If you need it, PM me your email address and I'll send it to you.

serenity3743 wrote on 09/02/09 at 13:09:47:


I'd love to have a copy of that Serenity...PM sent

SianLogic,
Welcome. When changing oil, be sure to capture spring and O ring that sits behind filter. O ring on mine usually stays in place. Hole in filter goes toward engine. I know you're not dumb, but shop guy I know says they do get put in backwards with no oil getting to engine. Check big O ring on side plate and reuse if it looks good. Snug bolts down, but don't lean on them. I have Suzuki manual and Clymer manual for my 2001. Both are wrong on oil quantity for my bike. Pour in first quart or liter then pour in about half of second one. Lean bike near vertical or put something under kickstand. Don't let it fall on you! Pour oil slowly while watching sightglass. When it gets about half way between lines screw oil cap back on and crank. Don't race the engine, but don't let it idle too slowly. You need to get that oil way up to the camshaft. After a couple of minutes stop engine and clean up your tools and pour up old oil to be disposed of later. Then go back and check oil sightglass. I slowly fill mine to the top of the sightglass, but no further. Overfill is not good. BTW I use Castrol 10w40 Act Evo. There are many opinions on which to use. Just ask for oil that will not make your clutch slip. You can do a lot on this bike. Just go slow and methodically.  Boofer  

Two things come to mind:
Will the warranty still be ok
I beleive the valve lifter clearance needs to be checked too.

Anti-seize goes on those bolts.

Adjusting the valves is easy but tedious becasue of the small space you have to work with. If your engine is ticking softly on the top end dont worry about it. If its ticking loudly or sounds tinney they may be loose. If you've got no ticking they may be tight. If you feel you just cant go without adjusting them there's directions here in the forums somewhere. A quick search should turn up step by steps with pictures. Dont even worry about the head bolts unless you've got leaking between teh head and jug. The bolts are SUPPOSED to be tightened every 4k mi but I'll bet $50 that no one does that on a regular basis. Its really not needed and is rather a PITA to do it so frequently.

BurnPgh wrote on 12/08/09 at 19:44:09:


I'll take that in tens, please!  

On my Savage (see signature), I've torqued the head bolts at 700 miles, 5200 miles, and 10,100 miles.

And, yes, it IS a PITA!