What a let down. RS of the carburator, I removed the 3 screws, right ? The cover came off, then a spring, then a diaphram plunger, but,....no white spacer. No needle either. Please, tell me I'm in the wrong place.

Rich

The needle is under the other side of the diaphragm.  Remember the orientation of the little plate with the two screws way down inside the diaphragm plunger.  The spacer is under the plate, and the plate needs to go back 'zackly the way it came off.

3 screws?? You must be in a wrong place. My bet is you removed the transient enrcihment valve, on the right flank of the carb. You need the big one on the very top. 4 screws.

Man, I coulda swore there was talk of 3 screws. But then, I coulda known this was way to easy.

Thanks for the caution on the disassembly. I'll watch for the unexpected. I can do a quadrajet in my sleep, so I think I can do this. But I'd like to get the manual too.

Then again in the reality of it all, it starts and idles perfect, and WOT is perfect,.... all I have is a lean spot at 1/8 - 1/4 throttle, where it just kinda surges and lopes along in 2nd & 3rd gear. If I hit the choke 1 click, its perfect. So, I'm not real sure what part I'm after, as the remidies here are somwhat inconsistent.
In past years when the Hondas did that, all we did was to raise the needle clip... one slot, and it fixed them. So I'm thinking the needle/white spacer area is what I have to work w/.

Rich

I sure don't know, but I can tell you this much, if you don't have a little impact driver, get one ! Those 3 screws didn't have a chance of not coming loose w/ just a tap from an impact driver. I've had mine since 1962 for my first Honda 50, and it has never failed to loosen any screw that has not been already totaled out.

Rich

PhilM, I was thinking the same thing some time ago. In essence, based on my internet research of what the thing does - if the valve got stuck in closed position - it would pop and backfire on deceleration. If it stucked open - it would burn richer in all regimes. It seems the only thing it does is lets some fuel pass during engine braking to prevent backfires. Only that and exactly then. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

Routy and all - if you really can not get an impact driver - a regular well fitting screwdriver also does wonders, given you give it a moderate tap or two before you start turning. I do it all the time on dubious screws. Fit screwdriver, tap, tap, try turn. Repeat if necessary.

dasch wrote on 09/01/09 at 08:55:06:

+1, that's how I took the top off my carb: good driver, put firm twist (go easy all you musclemen!) and pressure on it while tapping with a hammer.  Worked like a charm.  An old trick too, learned it when I was a kid, watching Dad work on 50 year old ranch tractors.