I'm going bare bones and going to manual decomp.  Do I need to rewire the ignition control or can I just remove the wiring to the decomp controller?

Is the starter relay necessary without the decomp control?  Can I not just have a switch operating between the battery and the starter?

and I believe you do need a starter relay. A lot of amps run through those contacts on starting, your "start" button would melt, all with wiring to it and back in 5 secs. recommend you keep it at least.

BobberT, my first bike was a 450cc Ducati with high compression and kick start only.

Manual decompression means the engine must turn VERY slowly because not even the most experienced rider can synchronize a manual decompression lever with the electric starter cranking the engine.

The Savage's starter motor is designed to take the electric decompressor into account, else it would have been twice as large...
... and cranking amps twice as many, and the battery would have been twice as big.

Leave it as it is, else get used to bump starting  

The decomp timer fires the solenoid & sets the lever under the exhaust valve before firing the starter. It only holds it long enough to let the starter make sure the engine isnt coming up on compression & not have it spinning already. It drops the decomp after about .2 secs, I think. All someone needs do is pull the cable & hit the button & let go the cable after a short bit, no damage.

Nothing. There's a few off road beasts that use the same method.

On the subject of wiring,  My engine recently quit when a main fuze blew.
We all know how much fun it is to track down the source of that.
Well, I got lucky. When I removed the tank, I immediately saw a wire showing bare burnt copper through a chaffed spot.  The loom had chaffed away then the insulation, finally a small spot of paint on the underside of the tank went bare and the deed was done. I rerouted the clutch cable and throttle cable to allow for a bit more room.  Then some liquid neoprene insulation and a little electricians tape, two new fuzes and I am on the road again.
Next time any of you folks have your tank off, look under it for bare spots, then look for a chaffed wire at that point.  It could save you some time not spent on the side of the road.

Phelonis

vroom1776 wrote on 06/04/07 at 15:20:36:


I used this diagram to wire my bike.  I set up a separate switch for the starter instead of wiring through the ignition.  I have not set up the lights yet.  I'm questioning why there's the wire spliced between the CDI and spark coil that goes into the ignition.  

I'm getting 12.5 V on my Big Crank battery.  I'm going to take it in and see how many amps it's putting out under load.

Problems:
1) I've run the starter through both the relay and by jumping it straight from the battery with car jumper cables.  I've done this with the spark plug removed.  In both scenarios, the engine turned slowly- reaching TDC about 2 to 3 times a second.  

2) I hooked up the main cables of the relay to the starter and ground but I'm having issues with the relay.
A) Sticking a screwdriver between the two poles of the starter does not create a short.  Contacts might be dirty.
B) Because I don't have the starter switch yet, I've touching the end of the switch leg to the relay to the positive terminal.  It usually activates the starter on the first try or two, but successive attempts only activate the relay.  I've checked the voltage on the battery after doing this and it remains fairly constant.

3) I'm not getting spark

yes, I'm way too busy to do it, but it's possible.