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Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap? (Read 187 times)
King Kashue
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Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap?
08/17/09 at 22:24:19
 
I've got a 98, and it's got the plug/cap oil leak.  I'm going to repair that later this week (more on that below), and I'm wondering what other repairs make sense at the same time?

Right now, I'm planning on the following

1. Cap/plug repair
2. Replace petcock with Raptor petcock (in another thread I mentioned a stalling issue and a petcock issue was one of the possible suggestions for a cause, and since I like the idea of the vacuum-free petcock, I figured I'd replace it whether or not the vacuum line was actually the problem).
3. Anti-numbass Seat lift
4. Replace sparkplug (because the tank will be off and it's so cheap, why not?)

Given that I'll have the seat and tank off, is there any other repair I should look into doing/stuff to check on?  My bike has 22,000 miles, and seems to have been well taken care of, but time humbles us all Wink  Or, if not wear & tear issues, other useful mods to do? (sparkplug door?)

Also, are all of these within the realm of skill for someone who's fine with mechanical stuff, but hasn't specifically worked on a bike before?  I know what I'm doing in general, know the difference between the low temp and the ultra copper silicone, etc., but this is my first motorcycle, so I'll have no specific knowledge base upon which to rely.

Finally, should I drop the cash for a inch-lb. torque wrench?  I've got a 0-150 ft-lb. wrench, but is the finer scale useful enough to spend the money?

Thanks in advance.
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Re: Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap
Reply #1 - 08/17/09 at 22:44:47
 
valve adjust....
new cam chain?...
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Re: Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap
Reply #2 - 08/17/09 at 23:24:10
 
at 22k miles, definitely check the cam chain, see the cam chain adjuster check in the tech section.

torque wrench, if you are confident in the acuracy of your tool then use it.  otherwise 1/4 is good to have.

where about the "city of angels" are you?
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King Kashue
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Re: Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap
Reply #3 - 08/17/09 at 23:33:06
 
verslagen1 wrote on 08/17/09 at 23:24:10:
at 22k miles, definitely check the cam chain, see the cam chain adjuster check in the tech section.


Will do.

Quote:
torque wrench, if you are confident in the acuracy of your tool then use it.  otherwise 1/4 is good to have.


I may price them out then.  I know Sears has their craftsman wrenches at about $80.  Not the worst price if I'm planning a long term hobby (and certainly not nearly the most expensive hobby I've ever had)

Quote:
where about the "city of angels" are you?


Brentwood...not too far away from where O.J. didn't kill his wife... Wink



Edit: Looking at the Cam chain thread, I guess I'll add that and an oil change to the list.  If I'm fixing the plug leak anyway, I suppose it wouldn't hurt to start from a tabula rasa as much as possible with the bike.

5. Cam Chain adjuster inspection
6. Oil change

I'm thinking if I get started and finished during daylight hours, I'll be happy Cheesy
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Re: Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap
Reply #4 - 08/18/09 at 05:47:09
 
Unless you're an experienced mechanic, you better start pretty early if you want your hands clean & tools put up at sunset. With 22,000 on it, unless you know its had a cam chain, you might as well have one in your hand. Odds are, the adjuster is about to come apart.A few chains have lasted well, but generally, the adjuster is at max allowable extension by 22,000 & some have fallen apart sooner, I Think, correct me if Im wrong guys.
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King Kashue
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Re: Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap
Reply #5 - 08/18/09 at 09:03:24
 
justin_o_guy2 wrote on 08/18/09 at 05:47:09:
With 22,000 on it, unless you know its had a cam chain, you might as well have one in your hand. Odds are, the adjuster is about to come apart.A few chains have lasted well, but generally, the adjuster is at max allowable extension by 22,000 & some have fallen apart sooner


I realize there's no way to know for sure without examining it, but is there anyway to get a sense of how likely it is that it's not been replaced before I order the part?

The bike's been taken care of exceptionally well, at least on the exterior (the cap oil leak is the only visible problem) so it's quite possible that the chain was replaced earlier...Is there a particular sound I can listen for or a "feel" while riding that could let me know if it's likely to be need replacement?

I ask because if I order the part and don't need it, it's $30-40 in shipping and restocking fees.  I'll risk that if I know it's "probably needed", but I'm less happy with spending $40 on a "just in case" situation.
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Re: Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap
Reply #6 - 08/18/09 at 09:21:57
 
cool, not to far from bobbert.
I'm near azusa

As I'm collecting parts for a rebuild let me know if you need anything.
Also, check the marketplace for our own brand of cam chain and adjuster.

You've got to have some time on the bike before odd noises will set your hairs to twitchen.  The adjuster is by your right ankle.  An odd clack there is a big issue.  I'd reccomend to get a mechanic stethoscope and listen from time to time and get to know the usual sounds.
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Re: Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap
Reply #7 - 08/18/09 at 10:58:24
 
I'd be leery of those Craftsman torque wrenches. Look them over carefully. The adjustable ones have a plastic locking collar that breaks all by itself. And the famous Craftsman Lifetime Guarantee doesn't apply to their torque wrenches.
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King Kashue
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Re: Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap
Reply #8 - 08/19/09 at 13:04:21
 
verslagen1 wrote on 08/18/09 at 09:21:57:
You've got to have some time on the bike before odd noises will set your hairs to twitchen.  The adjuster is by your right ankle.  An odd clack there is a big issue.  I'd reccomend to get a mechanic stethoscope and listen from time to time and get to know the usual sounds.


I'm definitely not hearing any clacking...of course, I could be missing it, or not recognizing it, but it sounds smooth to this musician's ears...  Wink

Looking at the thread on the adjuster, can I just lean it over (as you suggested in the thread) take off the cover and check it, thus giving me an idea as to whether I need to order a new chain?

I'm planning an oil and filter change with the bulk of the repairs, so I don't need to do one now, and I'm not actually going to ride it again until I change out the petcock and fix the oil leak, so am I safe trying that in order to see if I should order a new chain and plan to install it?
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Re: Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap
Reply #9 - 08/19/09 at 13:15:52
 
If you fudge the gasket while checking the cam chain add another $20 to your bills.

I would suggest checking the cam chain after you drain the oil for your change. Your going to have the filter out then anyways. Plus you will have to take off the header, and break pedel.

I know because mine is in parts right now waiting for a transmission part to come in so I can get back on the road.
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Re: Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap
Reply #10 - 08/20/09 at 09:08:01
 
King Kashue wrote on 08/19/09 at 13:04:21:
Looking at the thread on the adjuster, can I just lean it over (as you suggested in the thread) take off the cover and check it, thus giving me an idea as to whether I need to order a new chain?

I'm planning an oil and filter change with the bulk of the repairs, so I don't need to do one now, and I'm not actually going to ride it again until I change out the petcock and fix the oil leak, so am I safe trying that in order to see if I should order a new chain and plan to install it?

I've done it a few times when people come over and want to take a peek inside without having an issue.  However, if you have to ride it afterward having a spare gasket it mandatory as it can tear leaving you w/out means of holding oil.  Form-a-gasket works but there's cure time involved.  If you're at home, no problem, if you're at my house, hope you don't mind sleeping with the dog.   Grin
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Re: Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap
Reply #11 - 08/20/09 at 09:38:46
 
One of my engines was at the 21mm at the shoulder limit at 15,000 miles.
Now when ever I put on of my engines together, if the chain has more than 12,000 miles on the chan a new on goes in.
BTW in measuring the stretch, the book says measure between 21 links when the chain is tight. I stretch mine with a bungee cord to take this measurement but I do not trust it. The diameter of the heads of the pins can vary. I came up with an alternate way to measure wear.
I mark two lines 3 inches apart on a bench and lay the chain straight so that on end is at one line and the chain passes across the other. I use a steel bar and C clamp to fasten three inches of chain to the bench and lift the other end of the loop of chain. measure from the table to the chain as the chain is bent sideways in a curve.  A new chain will measure 4 inches rise.
The chain that allowed the adjuster to almost come apart measured 4 and three quarters inchs of curve. Since the stretch of the chain is actually the wear of the pins, this is an accurate measure of wear.

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« Last Edit: 08/20/09 at 14:42:07 by Phelonius »  

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Re: Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap
Reply #12 - 08/20/09 at 14:42:59
 


Stretched tight by bungee cord

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« Last Edit: 08/20/09 at 15:49:41 by Phelonius »  

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Re: Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap
Reply #13 - 08/23/09 at 20:54:00
 
King Kashue wrote on 08/17/09 at 22:24:19:
I've got a 98, and it's got the plug/cap oil leak.  I'm going to repair that later this week (more on that below), and I'm wondering what other repairs make sense at the same time?....


I would check the torque on the head bolts while I was there.
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Re: Repairs to do at the same time as the Plug/Cap
Reply #14 - 08/23/09 at 20:57:13
 
King Kashue wrote on 08/17/09 at 22:24:19:
....Finally, should I drop the cash for a inch-lb. torque wrench?  I've got a 0-150 ft-lb. wrench, but is the finer scale useful enough to spend the money?.....


I would not use a 0-150 ft-lb torque wrench for this job.  I'd use a 0-200 in-lb, or, if you can't find one, a 0-600 in-lb torque wrench (while not optimum) will be better than what you've got.

I like the beam-type torque wrenches.

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I don't own a cage.
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