verslagen1 wrote on 08/20/09 at 07:41:37:


Hey, Verslagen, I think your drip is a bearing or seal behind the front pulley.  I had that one time.  It was an easy fix even when I was new to the bike.

serenity3743 wrote on 08/20/09 at 08:22:17:

Well, I needed to check the pulley torque anyhoo.

I've read that post, before I posted before.

I'll PM ya, as it's not really related to this thread.

RTV around rubber grommet?  Or is it going past the wires themselves?   You know if you stop that oil leak you are going to learn that you need new rings and valve seals, right?

VHFKID, all questions are fair in love, war and during an oil war -- the super magnet original thread is referenced in the first few lines of the Tech Thread and it has all the detailed info in it on the smaller super magnet.   It would work OK, just not as "absodarnlutely completely" as the big honker super magnet will do.

Only point there is you plan to run synthetic oil for a year, you gotta deal with the ferrous metal dust that flows around in it or you may not be doing yourself a favor by keeping the oil around as long as it is technically good for.

OF- you knew exactly where I was going. I got 3 qts. of mobil1 synth for $2.50 each (Walmart clearance) I went to 5 walmarts and only one still had them. I want to start running a syn., but was surpirsed at how much metal is not stopped by the filter. Please someone from EMGO or HIFLO make a 10 micron filter please!!! I'd love to run syn and have a great performing filter that traps ferrous and non ferrous material.

And with normal prices about $8-9/qt. of mobil1 or whatever, I don't want to send the oil away just because of the particulates. At that price point I'd just run Rotella Dino, and change oil every 1-2K or when dirty.

I'm not sold yet that the supermagnet and syn. will last a year without causing possible damage from non ferrous or other materials not caught in the filter or by the magnet.

The 20W-50 syn blend oil I'm using isn't down noticeably in the sight glass in 2000 miles.

I don't think there are any full flow 10 micron filters for any car, truck, or motorcycle.  Cold oil would never flow through it.  25 micron is more like it.  In any case, neither original equipment nor aftermarket filter makers usually publicize the filtering efficiency of their filter media.  OE filters are determined to be right for the engine by the engine design engineers.  Aftermarket filters are reverse engineered from the OE filters.

The main factors damaging engine oil will be either viscosity loss due to shearing of the viscosity index improvers or oxidation of the oil, mainly due to heat.  The thinning from shearing and the thickening due to oxidation do not offset each other...the oil is damaged and doesn't protect as well.  (The old fable that oil never wears out, it just gets dirty, is an old shade tree mechanic's tale.  Oil does wear out at the molecular level by oxidation due to heat and nitration...chemical change caused by blow-by... and the essential additives become depleted and damaged.  Most of the "dirt" in oil is from the breakdown of the oil and its constituents.)  If the oil is visibly in bad shape, it is way past the time it should have been changed.  Dark color alone doesn't count.  The lab test, while overkill for our small oil quantities, is the only way to really tell.

I use a niobium magnet.  These do catch iron & steel particles so small that they pass through a good filter.  These ferrous particles are abrasive, and catching them reduces long term engine wear.

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