i think it may be an electrical problem, maybe something is short circuiting, i have only rode about 5 times this season, its been in the shopjust sitting there. the battery was charged, i rode i to the gas station, then it wouldnt start. i got a jump, then its back at the shop, but i dont know what to tell the mechanic because i dont know whats wrong with it

A dead cell usually indicates a defect in an older battery.

If your battery is not remaining charged, it can be either an excessive load or inadequate charging.  As said above, do you switch it off with the key in the vertical position or in the horizontal position?  The horizontal position keeps the taillight on and will pull down the battery.

Here's a test if you have a voltmeter.  With the engine warmed and running at a very fast idle (the book says 5000 rpm, which is roaring), the battery should be getting 14.0 to 15.5 volts.  If it isn't, your alternator or another part of the charging system (regulator/rectifier) isn't working.  (A fully charged "12 volt" battery is 12.6 volts.  It takes more than 14 volts to force a full charge into a 12V battery.)

Have you checked the simple things like looking for clean and tight battery cables and terminals?  Give each one a good look, wiggle, and tug.  If you have a corroded or loose cable, fix that.  Is the battery electrolyte up to the marks?  Unfortunately in our bikes the battery has to be removed to do this right.  If your battery has the six caps on the top, add distilled water up to the upper mark for the electrolyte level.  If the tops of the plates inside the battery are dry, and have been dry for a while, you've shortened the life of the battery.

How do you know you are getting dead cells? Are you using a meter, or are you checking specific gravity of each cell? Motorcycle batteries don't have external links between cells (neither do car batteries, any more) so you don't usually have access to check voltage on each cell. In any case, if you cannot get the battery to charge and hold a charge, you have to replace the whole thing.

Lead-acid batteries have some odd quirks, and with the odd quirks of automatic battery chargers it is possible for the battery to show fully charged and still be essentially dead.  A dead battery has a very weak electrolyte (normal - don't panic). With a normal charging voltage (about 14.4) it will accept almost no current. The automatic charger sees the high voltage and low current as a fully charged battery, so it shows the battery as charged, and the battery never really gets charged. Depending on the charger, over a period of hours the battery may begin to accept charge. When it does, the electrolyte gets stronger (more conductive). The battery voltage will drop a little, and the charger can then begin the real charging. Make sure to use a charger rated no more than two amps to avoid heating problems and electrolyte loss. Ideally, the charge would be at C/10, which for a 14 amp-hour battery (yours) would be 1.4 amps.

and i turn the key the right way

I switch a hot wire ( the single red,ehhh 16 or 18 gauge, skinny dude, under the seat) to a wire on the decomp timer. It fires the decomp solenoid & it runs the starter. It is such a low current job I use a micro- switch out of a dead DVD player control panel. It will spin the starter even with the switch off. Or, switch on & it starts it. That switch has been tie wrapped up under the frame, just under my right thigh, under the right front edge of the seat, for over 3 years. It is inside 2 fingers of a butyrate glove, still on a small piece of circuit board, because the switch is too small to mount, thats how low current the application is.

Im firing the timer, it fires the decomp & then, the starter. I dunno how to just fire the decomp using the timer, but if a guy put a diode in the wire that fires it & jumped a hot wire in between the diode & the decomp solenoid & switched it, you could get it rolling on & switch it off after you drop the clutch on it.
Might not even need the diode, I dunno, but it might be a pretty good idea.

I suppose it is possible the new batteries were never properly charged before they were installed. New batteries, including sealed ones, need an initial charge. They will usually tell you to use a low-rate charger for ten hours or so. I have not used a Battery Tender, but they are fairly highly recommended. Since I have the equipment to do it, I would use a voltage and current limited charger, setting the voltage to 14.4 volts and the current limit to C/10 (1.4 amps). The battery will charge at 1.4 amps until its terminal voltage reaches 14.4, and then the current will taper off. If you have a way to monitor current, wait until the current drops to C/100 (140 ma), and you can consider the battery charged. A truly well designed charger will control the current until the battery reaches the desired voltage, then control the voltage and allow the current to drop, then when the current drops low enough the charger output will switch to a trickle charge, maintaining about 13.6 volts.

You also need to check the charging system with a digital voltmeter. As stated above by PTRider, once the engine speed increases to well above idle the battery voltage should approach 14 - 15 volts. Another easy method is to locate the bike somewhere you can see the headlight shining on a wall. As you increase the engine speed from low idle the headlight should brighten. If it doesn't, the charging system has problems.