SuzukiSavage.com - Oil. 15w50 instead of 10w40?

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Re: Oil. 15w50 instead of 10w40?
Reply #15 - 08/07/09 at 08:31:50

Well actually, I do top up based on what I see on Friday morning through the little window, and also, I can see it's lost some oil because I can see it all over the fins and I see tiny puddles in the morning on the cardboard I keep under the bike, so I know it's losing oil. I check the little window just to assess how much oil I should add weekly, and I can tell you we're faaaaaaaaaaar from the usual X cl of oil consumed per 1000 km.
So I'll change the oil this weekend with 20W50, ask in a bike shop for an additive and in the meantime, it'll keep sounding like a TMax when I take off at the lights.

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justin_o_guy2

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Re: Oil. 15w50 instead of 10w40?
Reply #16 - 08/07/09 at 09:34:12

Mine loses a little & I use Rotella-T 15-40. It leaked more with the 10-40.
Rotella is cheap & has none of the stuff that messes with a wet clutch.
Sounds like the infamous head plug leak. You can fix that dude & cease the constant worry of running low. You can also slightly overfill it. The operative word being 'Slightly".

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Skid Mark Serious Thumper Offline FSO Posts: 1216 Calgary, Alberta Gender:	Re: Oil. 15w50 instead of 10w40? Reply #17 - 08/07/09 at 15:30:51 I remember a saying from an old time mechanic: " If oil is getting out, dirt is getting in." Do the leak fix as soon as you can. You engine will appreciate it. I just switched to the Rotella T 15-40 oil that Justin_o_guy2 is using. The bike runs just fine and the oil cost is about 1/2 of what it used to.
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PTRider

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Re: Oil. 15w50 instead of 10w40?
Reply #18 - 08/07/09 at 16:36:48

I know of no additive to improve clutch action.

All engine oils contain a package of additives...detergents, dispersants, anti-wear agents, anti-oxidants, anti-foamant, viscosity index improver, pour point depressant, corrosion inhibitors, and others including friction modifiers. All engine oils are about 75~80% base oil (either conventional, synthetic, or a combination) and 20~25% additive package.

Automotive engine oils may contain friction modifiers that cause wet clutch slippage. Motorcycle oils do not, nor do diesel engine oils. To be sure, look for the JASO MA certification on the label or a statement somewhere on the label or web site data sheet saying that the oil is OK for motorcycles with wet clutches...conversely, avoid those oils that state that they are not suitable for wet clutches, such as Mobil 1 Racing oils (including their 15W-50).

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dasch Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 1137	Re: Oil. 15w50 instead of 10w40? Reply #19 - 08/07/09 at 20:19:54 Oil for diesels, yeah - good idea.
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Educatedredneck Senior Member Alliance Member Offline Sometimes it's better to be lucky than good. Posts: 458 Hampstead, Maryland Gender:	Re: Oil. 15w50 instead of 10w40? Reply #20 - 08/07/09 at 23:41:51 I use Shell Rotella T - very cheap and my Savage likes it!!! Tastes good too. BURP!!!! Buy it at Wallyworld in a 5 quart jug and you are good to go!!!
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BrusselsSavage

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Re: Oil. 15w50 instead of 10w40?
Reply #21 - 08/08/09 at 03:50:18

OK Quick update.
I did a quick oil change this morning, 20w50 + a new oil filter. The spark plug seemed fine. I drove it for 10-15 miles, and so far, so good. Can't see a drip, yet, but I cleaned up the engine nicely before I went riding.

I did buy the head plug everyone's been talking about, and I had a closer look this morning at where it goes.
Correct me if I'm wrong here, but I need to take off the head, and in order to do this, I have to take the engine off the frame? I'm a newby at taking engines apart and I'm afraid I'll find too many nasty suprises when I do take it apart, albeit partly. I also see that the guy who had it before me (or before that) used screws that don't look kosher to me. Does suzuki sell a pouch with all the new screws, bolts and nic-nacs neede when you take an engine apart? If I do, I might as well change all the screws and everything.
Any thoughts?

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grandpa

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Re: Oil. 15w50 instead of 10w40?
Reply #22 - 08/08/09 at 06:18:35

I am sure there is a thread on changing the plug in the tech section (everything else is there). I bought an '06 acouple of years ago with 76 miles on it. I did the 500 mile check up including retorqueing the headbolts. You have to take the 'head cover' off. The manufacturing tolerances of your frame determines whether you have to pull the motor or not. Mine came out easy enough but was a bear to wiggle back into place. The 'plug' is a rubber plug to access one headbolt. Just coat it good with your favorite sealant and it should not leak.

Castrol 20-50 is great oil if you are losing a little. Any oil that says energy conserving rated should not be used. I am not familiar with the Wynn's product but I wouldn't use any additive's in oil at all.

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