Pulled the bearings out of the head tube, repacked them, polished the races, some corrosion.

Works great now.  The wobbly, hard to ride a straight line is gone.

Still looking for a method to pull the races out.

Found a good article at...

http://www.motorcyclecruiser.com/tech/service_steering_head_bearings/index.html

Hope y'all give a read.

All in all, was surprised how open to the elements the bearings are.

The grease in my bearing was minimal and dry.
Corrosion is evident and as soon as I can figure out how to pull the races w/o damage I'll swap them out.

But after clean and packing they are smooth.

I'll have to see if I can design a insiteu repacking tool.

It was fairly easy to get at the bearings, take the handlebars off, fork caps, and the stem nut and the top tree comes off with a tap or two.  Remove the adjustment nut.  Then raise the bike and the forks and all come off.  Be sure to have an extra pair of hands.  I disconnected the wires from the bikes and left the bars dangle from the fork, lent the whole thing against the bench and kicked a brick against the wheel so it wouldn't roll away.  Left the bearing on the stem and cleaned and packed it there.  No sense removing it till I had a tool to remove the race.  packed it the ol' fashioned way and put it back together.

The race is hard to get to.
I did find a tool that expands to engage the race.  
Then you pound it out with a punch.

Many years ago I read an article about installing a zerk into the steering head. Idea was to drill into the side of the steering head at a convenient spot, tap the hole for a zerk, then just pack the head with grease until grease oozed out at both ends. The article claimed it could be done without disassembly. One uses a suitable drill with a drill stop so as to avoid drilling too deep (into the moving part). Drill slowly making sure the drill is well greased to capture drill shavings. The tap is also heavily greased, for the same reason. If all goes well no metal shavings get inside the steering head. Personally, I think if the fork assembly was already removed from the steering head it would be an excellent time to install a zerk.

Charon wrote on 07/14/09 at 16:06:44:


You do that with this bike and you'll have grease squirting out the bottom of the stem.  It's hollow and cut into for the steering lock.

I'm thinking something like this...


But I like this tool...

You have read the next couple of steps.  29-32 ft lbs is an INITIAL SEATING.

(From the Clymer's)
6.  Install the steering stem adjust nut and tighten it to the initial torque specification listed in Table 1.
7.  Turn the steering stem from lock-to-lock 5-6 times to seat the bearings.
8.  LOOSEN the steering stem nut 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
NOTE: If during step 6 and 8 the adjust nut will not tighten or loosen, remove the nut and inspect both the nut and steering stem threads for dirt and/or burrs.  Clean both parts with a tap and die if necessary, then repeat steps 6-8.
9.  Install the upper fork bridge, washer, and steering stem cap nut only finger tight at this time.
10.  Move the steering stem back and forth from side-to-side.   The steering stem should move freely from side-to-side with no looseness or stiffness.  If necessary, repeat step 6 and step 8 and readjust the steering stem adjust nut.


You are right in that 29-32 ftlbs is way too tight as a final torque.  You have to read through the task.

I did head bearings on my Honda a while ago.  I don't remember what exact tool it was, but there was some puller that I hooked up to a slide hammer and it removed everything like a charm.  It was a free tool rental from autozone, so it can't be too uncommon.