Hi all,

The search function isn't working for me, so pardon if I ask common questions.  


1.  Carb Rebuild.  2007 S40, 10,000 miles, so I'm going through it.  I do not know motorcycles well, but I have a brother in law who was long ago a motorbike mechanic.  We think (no surprise) it's running lean.  I would generally simply rebuild a carb on a motor with any running trouble and some miles on it.  I couldn't find a rebuild kit online.  I'd expect a bag containing all O rings, diaphram, and all kinds of gaskets and the like would be readily available.  But I couldn't see one.

That seems a reasonable first step - get to stock specs, see what happens.  Then start messing with jets and so on.

Does such a kit exist somewhere?

2. Cleaning.  There's boot heel melted onto my exhaust system.  Any idea how to get that junk off without scratching?  And there's a bit of corrosion on the aluminum covers at the sides of the engine.  I see a product on eBay designed to polish this out.  Suggestions?  I do have power buffing gear, I just haven't worked with aluminum much.

3.  Exhaust.  Is there a catalytic converter in that absurd stock tube?!?  I suspect I'll replace it.  The bike is too quiet and the stock muffler seems overly long and tiny.  If the stock exhaust is "OK" then I'll leave it alone.  I don't need more power really, just good running.  If it's really really crap, then I'll find one of the recommended pipes and put it on.  Since the sound goes back and I wear earplugs, I'd be tempted to use as open a pipe as feasible.  As it is, my wife can't hear me drive up to either our shop or our house, which is insane.  Seems a safety hazard to have such a polite sounding single.

4.  Fork oil.  All seems fine and the oil isn't OLD (2007), but maybe it needs replacing anyway.  Does it?  I'm pretty busy, but if it's a really good idea I'll do it now.  Otherwise, I'll wait until I have more time.  Might take the bike to my brother in law's garage (I don't have one) in December and do a more major teardown.  That would be the time.

5.  Tire changing.  Front is marginal.  Are these tube tires or tubeless?  Is changing a tire myself difficult?  I can likely balance myself, but was considering those ceramic beads one pours into the tire.  I like that idea.


OK.  So who am I?

Steve.  55, East Tennessee, bicyclist with some skill, mechanically adept.  Rode motorbikes briefly in the 1970s.  Can't say I had a clue.  One of my goals was learn to motorbike, so I took the basic rider course.  No trouble at all.  Sat on all kinds of bikes.  Tried a bunch.  Liked the Royal Enfield the best, but they're just a bit odd.  Next best, the LS650.  Sounded like a motorbike, light feel.  So I got this used one wholesale.  The cruiser position is a bit different for me, I'm getting used to it OK.  And my wife might be able to handle it. It really is such a lovely machine.  I thought about finding a GN400, but they're unusual.  Somehow a single seems logical.

I think a single may seem logical because of my early years.  My grandfather was basically a motorcycle hood in the 1920s and 1930s.  My grandmother was a "dancer" (what did that really mean??) who also rode motorcycles.  While it was hard to conceive of these old people doing so, I've seen the pictures.  So my grandfather would look at bikes and point out things when I was little.  In Britain.  I only remember singles, and the sound and smell of singles.  Explains why the Enfield appealed to me!  

The area I live has great riding roads.  The Honda Hoot ride (one route at least) runs right by my music store.  I see bikers all the time.  They come here to ride US129 up in the mountains.  A bit unfortunate - many flatlanders seem ill-equipped with gear or skills for mountain roads.  I'm down in the valley, but there are still tight blind turns, hills, and lots of beautiful scenery.  I bicycle all over the area.  I love bicycling up US129 over into North Carolina, but only do that on weekday mornings early.  It's a great road, with lots of curves.  Used to be peaceful, but bikers discovered it and now it's a hotbed of activity in the afternoons.  Whoever decided to call it the "Dragon" did some effective marketing.

I'm looking forward to gradually getting more skilled at motorcycling.  Getting used to the more laid back geometry, the use of throttle, shifting, and so on.  Being very careful (I'm always careful).  These roads are pretty demanding.   The biggest hazard seems to be city people.  They've moved out here and drive too fast for conditions.  Blind corners, farm equipment, and cell phone city drivers don't mix well.  Fortunately the LS650 seems to have fine brakes and great stability.

I'm really thankful this forum exists.  I've learned so much already about the delightful Savage.  You folks seem so generous with knowledge.

I can't see just throwing different jets into something that I don't know is working at original spec.  Thus my interest in getting fresh o-rings, diaphram, needle valve, and so on.  Optimizing something seems the next step, once it's working to spec.  Regardless of what that thing is.  

I have a difficult time bringing myself to tear apart a carb without the new pieces for everything in hand.  Easy to end up with a non-functioning machine while waiting for parts.

If the diaphram/slide assembly is not damaged on this carb then do not replace it; the cost is prohibitive, almost as much as a new performance carb.  Usually all that is needed for a carb with miles on it and dirt and grime in it, is to take it apart and clean it really well.  Replace the float bowl gasket if needed and jet and tune to the engines needs.  The stock engine is indeed set quite lean and can use at least an adjustment of the pilot air screw (found under the little brass cap on the upper right side of the carb).  If a replacement muffler has been mounted the it will certainly need rejetting/tuning.  The most common replacement is quick, easy and inexpensive...a HD Dyna muffler from an '04 or earlier model.  There are lots of them on ebay for cheap.
With that muffler a larger pilot jet maybe needed to richen the low throttle range, a small adjustment of the needle by raising it will richen the midrange and a larger main jet will richen the high throttle range.  
A stock engine with dyna muffler typically will use a #52.5 pilot jet with the pilot air screw set at about 2 turns out; the needle is raised by filing the little white spacer to 1/2 its normal thickness or replacing it with 3 tiny washers; and a #152.5 main jet.  This is typical, but you have to tune your engine to its particular needs and there is some variation between engines.


Details of the process is in the tech section.  It is really pretty easy to do, just take your time and go step by step.