First of all I would like to thank everyone here for the great help.  I completed the white spacer mod today.  I know the wrenching involved may be second nature for you...but I am a programmer and this stuff is so "new" to me.  I got the carb out easy enough.  After reading here I decided to remove the battery box so it would be easier..and it was.

Fortunately for me all the carb screws came out.  I replaced the white spacer with a #4 nylon spacer which was about 1/2 thickness.  Everything went good.  I replaced the 4 top screws with new hex cap screws so I'll be OK next time.

While I was in there, I adjusted the mixture screw (2 1/2 turns out) and did the spark plug door mod.

The hardest part was getting the bloody tank back on..but I managed.

I took it for a spin and believe it was a bit better on the back firing but it still had a few BANGS.

That brings me to my question.

I noticed there is a good amount of air coming from where the muffler attaches to the head pipe.

I have two options.  I have a sportster pipe (and the reducer sleeve to fit) that I could put on.

Or I can try to fix the exhaust leak with the stock muffler.

First of all, can i get away with putting the sportster (all baffles intact) on WITHOUT a rejet?  What would be the result?  

If I want to fix the exhaust leak...how would I do that?  Is their a sealant I can put in there?  I have some high temp RTV sealant...would that work?  

Thanks!!!!!!

Heck, you don't need our help,... you're doin' great on your own!....

But I can't resist blabbin'....
Rejet,... start modest, try a #150 main and open up the idle mix screw.  See what you think.  If you go to a k/n air filter, try a #152.5 main and a #55 pilot...

Use this as a general guide...

A good indicator of overall jetting is the weather...if popping/backfiring increases on humid days, or at higher elevation, that indicates rich....less popping on those days indicates lean.

To test the main, accelerate from 30 or 40 mph, in 4th or 5th gear at full throttle for several seconds, then reduce throttle by about 1/8,...if power increases for a second, you are lean on the main jet.  Go up one jet size and test again.

That's just what I would do....  Replace those 4 float bowl Phillips screws with allen heads and changes are easy from there on out.  If you have to go more than 3 turns out with the idle mix screw (right-side under brass plug), then go up a step on the pilot jet.  A bigger pilot jet will greatly effect your cruising gas mileage.
Elevation makes a big difference ....  The higher you are, the leaner your jetting.

It's a shame you didn't contact Lancer sooner. His jet kit includes everything and it's $25. Also Lancer can give you the straight scoop on any carb question you'll ever have.
                                                                               Ride Safe
                                                                               Marine5317

trapper_canada wrote on 06/29/09 at 16:49:51:



80$???? WAhhh. I paid 65$ for mine here in Ottawa lol. Man oh man. You can go to almost any shop and get all the parts separately for 25$ max. I got my mains and pilots at a yamaha dealer lol.