SuzukiSavage.com - Retarded question.

Savage_Amusement Serious Thumper Offline On this steel horse I ride. Posts: 1004 Omaha, NE Gender:	Retarded question. 05/27/09 at 18:33:23 With the battery removed and using an Ohm meter should I be getting a complete circuit? No key in or on.
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diamond jim Serious Thumper Offline Posts: 1425 North Alabama Gender:	Re: I effed up I think. Reply #1 - 05/27/09 at 19:12:37 The red wire with the white connector- is that the one that has what looks like a red fabric cover instead of rubber? Still thinking about all this. I doubt anything is wrong with your rectifier that you moved down to the muffler support.
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Savage_Amusement Serious Thumper Offline On this steel horse I ride. Posts: 1004 Omaha, NE Gender:	Re: Retarded question. Reply #2 - 05/27/09 at 19:20:51 Yes, it feeds into the top side of the solenoid. Then goes into a white connector and splits.
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diamond jim Serious Thumper Offline Posts: 1425 North Alabama Gender:	Re: Retarded question. Reply #3 - 05/27/09 at 19:33:45 I've never taken an ohm meter to it to see what normal is. I would think you should have an open reading. Then closed with the key in the "on" position.
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marshall13

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Re: Retarded question.
Reply #4 - 05/27/09 at 21:05:44

just checked the clymer diagrams... 95-04 is maybe yes... try reversing the leads on the ohm-meter... if it allows current in both directions, id say problem... if only one way, id say not a worry... those years have a battery hot lead to the regulator/rectifier....

edit: correction, all years 86-04... had to recheck, as i couldnt see it not having a bat term...lol

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Savage_Amusement

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Re: Retarded question.
Reply #5 - 05/28/09 at 06:37:54

I just don't see right now what would make the 20A main blow instantly when battery power is added. Now that I know I'm supposed to have a signal when the batter is out between the pos and neg leads, I'm not totally sure where to go next. I'm just going to have to sit down and REALLY look. It was popping with a few of the connectors not even hooked up even.

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dasch Serious Thumper Offline SuzukiSavage.com Rocks! Posts: 1137	Re: Retarded question. Reply #6 - 05/28/09 at 07:26:39 Think about the connectors that WERE connected at that time. One of them will lead you to the answer.
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Oldfeller--FSO

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Re: Retarded question.
Reply #7 - 05/28/09 at 09:53:09

I have had issues similar to this with other bikes -- try reversing the red and black connectors to your Volt/Ohm meter to what you are hitting to get the "leakage" that is worrying you.

If you get a different answer when doing this test lead reversal -- what is happening is you are reading a current flow through the rectifier bridge in the rectifier/regulator assembly.

The reason is works with one connection set red/black and not with the opposing black/red is the bridge will only pass the slight sensor current from the Volt/Ohm meter when it happens to align with the bridge. Otherwise the anti-leak anti-reverse function of the bridge stops the sensor flow of electrons.

The resistance number you see is when you get one is suspiciously the same as the test resistance for the alternator winding .... capiche?

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marshall13

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Re: Retarded question.
Reply #8 - 05/28/09 at 14:01:59

Savage_Amusement wrote on 05/28/09 at 06:37:54:

I just don't see right now what would make the 20A main blow instantly when battery power is added. Now that I know I'm supposed to have a signal when the batter is out between the pos and neg leads, I'm not totally sure where to go next. I'm just going to have to sit down and REALLY look. It was popping with a few of the connectors not even hooked up even.

if it blows the fuses key off, there are very few circuits that really are a possibility... solenoid, decomp controller. iggy switch, regulator... just check the clymer diagram... starter solenoid is legged before the fuse, thus, eliminated.... the decomp controller is seperately fused, so also eliminated... that leaves the iggy switch, and reg/rec and their related wiring after the fuse.... if your short to ground was before the fuse, the fuse wouldnt be blowing, you'd just get a light show....

edit:so, if you unplug the connectors that lead to the keyswitch, and regulator/rctifier, put in a fresh fuse, then hook up the bat and the fuse blows, it has to be the harness.... if it doesnt, then plug in one of the removed connectors... fuse blows, that assembly is at fault... doesnt blow, unplug the just tested assembly, then plug in the other... one more fuse will tell you the true culprit....

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Savage_Amusement Serious Thumper Offline On this steel horse I ride. Posts: 1004 Omaha, NE Gender:	Re: Retarded question. Reply #9 - 05/28/09 at 14:36:22 Thank you guys for the help. After I eat I'll get right on it and let you know what I got mixed up where. I printed out the wiring diagram and it is really cool how it prints so that everything lines up so you can put both pages together and have a whole front to back schematic.
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Savage_Amusement

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Re: Retarded question.
Reply #10 - 05/28/09 at 17:27:50

I got the fuse to stop blowing anyhow. Now I don't have my front turn signals hooked up at all, as in they are not even on the bike. Just the bare wires are hanging out but no bare wires are exposed or touching anything. Now when I turn on my key and the lights come on my rear signals come on too like running lights, but they are only turn signals. Do I need to complete the circuit for it to work right?

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thumperclone

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Re: Retarded question.
Reply #11 - 05/28/09 at 17:58:02

Savage_Amusement wrote on 05/28/09 at 06:37:54:

I just don't see right now what would make the 20A main blow instantly when battery power is added. Now that I know I'm supposed to have a signal when the batter is out between the pos and neg leads, I'm not totally sure where to go next. I'm just going to have to sit down and REALLY look. It was popping with a few of the connectors not even hooked up even.

direct fault will make the fuse blow
simple def of fault
hot wire has positive connection to the frame,ground,neg wire..

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thumperclone

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Re: Retarded question.
Reply #12 - 05/28/09 at 18:03:00

Savage_Amusement wrote on 05/28/09 at 17:27:50:

I got the fuse to stop blowing anyhow. Now I don't have my front turn signals hooked up at all, as in they are not even on the bike. Just the bare wires are hanging out but no bare wires are exposed or touching anything. Now when I turn on my key and the lights come on my rear signals come on too like running lights, but they are only turn signals. Do I need to complete the circuit for it to work right?

you stil have a "fault" somewhere in the rear turn sig ckt..
ie pinched wire in the side rail(s) is my guess..
ohm meter with no power(battery disconnected)on each of 4 wires..
only one frome each side should read contact, hope this helps!!
the b/w is the common shold read to frame... Wink

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Savage_Amusement

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Re: Retarded question.
Reply #13 - 05/28/09 at 19:35:04

I'm retarded LOL.
I figured out the signal thing.
Rear lights = LED
Front lights = not hooked up
Hazard light switch = ON
Thermal Flasher

I think you can see the fail.

I can also confirm that you get a complete circuit when hooking the leads across a ohm meter + to + and - to -. But NOT when + to -.

I repaired a wire I thought was bad and after that I didn't get the blown fuse anymore.

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