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Visually Inspecting Valve Operation (Read 181 times)
Charon
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Re: Visually Inspecting Valve Operation
Reply #15 - 05/26/09 at 20:27:25
 
From your description, you were trying to charge the battery. You slipped with the positive terminal of the charger, and got sparks. Usually, the ignition switch would have been OFF. I can't see any way that would have affected the ignitor box, but of course cannot rule it out, since there are live connections elsewhere on the bike.

I would connect a voltmeter to the battery and watch when I tried a start (be aware digital meters may not respond as quickly as the old analog ones). If the battery voltage drops under about 10 volts when the starter is trying to turn the engine, you found your problem. That's why I suggested a jumper battery, such as a car battery, with much higher amp capacity than the small battery on the bike. Just having a NEW battery doesn't mean you have a GOOD battery. I believe the older bikes (pre S40 label) left the headlight ON when starting, so the demand on the battery is higher. Suzuki changed the circuitry on the S40 so the headlight turns OFF during a start, which makes me suspect there might have been occasional problems with the older ones.
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Eschew obfuscation.

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marshall13
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Re: Visually Inspecting Valve Operation
Reply #16 - 05/26/09 at 21:02:01
 
here's a variation of Charon's idea, check the available voltage at the box, and the coil... the iggy system on this bike really reminds me of a ford tfi, right up to the "start" signal wire to the iggy box... while cranking, id want to see at least 11 volts to both the black(start signal), and orange/white(ignition hot) wires going into your iggy box, at the box side connector... further, i'd want to see no less than 1.5 volts less than is available at the batt terminals, while cranking.... you can get harness continuity, but still have resistance that causes voltage drop(loose pin socket kind of thing).... if that black wire doesnt give an acceptable signal, the box wont switch to "start retard" on the advance.... if the orange/white doesnt provide enough voltage, the box wont power up.... that you got any spark at all would be an indicator the iggy is functioning.... id also check the voltage at the orange/white coil wire connector, while cranking, same desired results(at least 11, no lower than 1.5 below bat)id also run a resistance on the black/yellow that runs from the coil to the box, and id want to see less than 1.5 ohms resistance, preferably a very minor decimal.... im willing to bet either you have a bad spade connector on the coil, or bad connections causing a voltage drop..... my real bet is that black wire, ill bet it isnt giving a signal....
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verslagen1
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Re: Visually Inspecting Valve Operation
Reply #17 - 05/26/09 at 23:08:55
 
Tap on the relays, while the light show may have fried the CDI, it may have only flashed the points together on the relays.  A wrap or two may free them up.  No gangsta rap please.
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SavageDanny
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Re: Visually Inspecting Valve Operation
Reply #18 - 05/27/09 at 04:04:25
 
Charon, marshall, verslagen, thanks for all of the advice. I will try some of that later this evening and see what happens. Thanks again.
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