you should be able to do that through the valve adjustment "windows" on the headcover... a dial indicator with a magnetic base would probably allow an accurate measurement of valve lift the same way..

She quit starting. Been checking everything I can think of but I suspect it is actually going to lead back to the igniter. I have already replaced a couple of fried electrical components. My fault, went to charge a cheap battery that was low on fluid, positive side of a charger slipped from my hand and hit frame, big sparks! Been nothing but trouble since. Have also replaced battery with a sealed one.

How does that relate to valves?

My step-father-in-law insists that it jumped time or the valves are not adjusted correctly or working. I told him no way that's true because I rebuilt the top half this last winter and triple checked everything as it went back together. Well I tore into it last night and everything looks fine. Cam chain and tensioner are good. Valve adjustment was spot on. Timing appears to be set correctly.

I just want to be able to confirm the valves are moving. I suspect they are fine and that I have torn back into the engine for nothing. I am trying to avoid removing the head again if at all possible.

I even took apart the starter and tested it and it is fine too.

SavageDanny wrote on 05/26/09 at 09:30:54:

here's an old school valve timing test... it requires one to procure a very high tech diagnostic tool, a paper matchbook... one opens the book, and holds the cover over the end of the tailpipe while cranking, just angling the end away from the pipe... if the cover just flaps away from the pipe, then returns to its starting position, the valve timing is at least close... if it sucks back toward the outlet of the pipe, it shows a vacuum is forming in the exhaust, which is a sure indication of a slipped, skipped, or other wise malfunctioning valve timing set-up... a folded business card works well for non smokers...lol

SavageDanny wrote on 05/26/09 at 10:28:44:

engine just has to crank, doesnt have to start... actually more accurate on crank, as some engines get an exhaust "vac eye" momentarily while running(a pop back twice a minute or so)... the light show and replacement of other parts shows you pretty much knew the problem... but, peace in the family is worth an extra hour of work...

SavageDanny wrote on 05/26/09 at 11:36:51:

3 hours then...lol  did you check for spark while you had the plug out?

SavageDanny wrote on 05/26/09 at 11:54:08:

21 year old bike, bro, your "light show" might have just been the finale... it seems to have fried all the coil assemblies... maybe the crank pick-up? that's a coil too....

marshall13 wrote on 05/26/09 at 13:52:50:


Pick up tested within specifications. Did my valve test earlier this evening too. Everything moved liked it should. Many continuity tests on wiring found no failures either.