Yep, that's the oil filter.  HiProFiltro makes the motorcycle oil filters that wear the K&N label, although I don't know if the filter elements are exactly identical.  They may also make the Suzuki branded air & oil filters...somebody's gotta; Suzuki doesn't make filters.

My experience with a fork brace is that it makes the front suspension smoother even at city speeds, so evidently there was some fork flex and binding.  It also makes my bike run more smoothly at highway speed.  My Tkat brace won't be taken off until I sell the bike.

Renewing the brake fluid is very important.  Brake fluid is hygroscopic...it absorbs moisture, from the air in our case.  The wet boiling point spec on brake fluid is the temperature it boils at with 3.5% water content.  The lowered boiling point can cause sudden loss of braking when the heat from hard braking causes the brake fluid to vaporize.  Corrosion in the calipers and other parts of the system is also greatly accelerated with moisture in the brake fluid.  CHANGE THE BRAKE FLUID IN YOUR CARS PERIODICALLY FOR THE SAME REASONS.  Why make brake fluid hygroscopic?...so the water that WILL get in there is dispersed, not pools at the bottom to cause heavy corrosion in those spots.  H-D uses silicone DOT5 brake fluid.  The rest of us must not use silicone fluid.  DOT4 has a higher wet boiling point than DOT3.  Buy synthetic brake fluid...'cuz all brake fluid is synthetic ...there is nothing natural about polyglycol ether.

DrunkenDwarf wrote on 05/12/09 at 09:18:08:

Nothing will wear out faster or break cause you don't have one.
But the forks on the savage are whimpy.  Ever pull up hard to a stop and feel the bike jump to the side when you released the front brake?  Do you feel every ridge or crack in the pavement that you're riding on?  I can.  I have 2 savages now, 1 with and 1 w/o (soon to change).  Riding around on the 1 w/o is an eye popping experience.  Borrow a set and I'm sure you'll have trouble getting them off.  

I have had a vehicle on which the brake fluid was apparently never replaced, and did indeed get the corrosion. It was a Winnebago LeSharo, on Renault chassis. It had a hydraulically actuated clutch, which shared a reservoir with the brake system. I never had brake problems, but always had a problem with the clutch on long uphill pulls. The clutch free play would increase until the clutch would not release on pedal application. The clutch slave cylinder was very near the exhaust pipe, and I figured the fluid was boiling. I bled the system a couple of times. Then one cold day there was no clutch pedal. Replaced the fluid, and it worked for a day or so. When I took the slave cylinder off there was a big corroded spot on the bottom, allowing the fluid to leak past the piston. My guess is that water got in there, and is heavier than brake fluid, so bleeding it did no good. Quite likely there was water in one or more of the brake cylinders, too, but they never got that hot. I had had enough other problems with it, including parts availability, and I traded it off.

  When your brake fluid starts boiling thats when it time to change the fluid. Thats when I'm going to change mine.

   I must be lucky I don't seem to have the problems that some people on here have with motorcycles.

In the garage.

Phelonius
If you get good at it, move to the living room.