Thankyou for the thread very nice instructions I will adjust the float but which way it may sound dumb, if the pin is in i assume it stops gas flow, so i need to lower the little plate to alow more fuel ah now im confused... it shouldnt matter because no matter what its only going to let whatever fuel in that you use, right. All we would achieve is more volume in the bowl. Though the plastic spacer mod intrest me. sounds like an easy mod. I would almost seem as if i would need more vaccuum to suck more fuel at higher rpms.?

If you can see your bowl then you're not to far away from your jets.

The main jet is responsible for 60% to 100% or WFO throttle.  Perhaps your main is clogged or wrong size?  Best of luck.

or the spring is off to one side and not centered in the cover

OK Just did a compression check Came up with 135psi, the limit is 114psi, and the standard is 142 - 200 psi! So im not at the limit but im deffinetly below standard operation. I know the head gasket is good because its new and i replaced it. I already check valve clearances, there right on spec, so that leaves rings or cylinder/piston. Got to fix copression before i go to carb problems, Im starting to wish i never bought this bike, Looks like im going to have to do a rebuild, and i might as well replace the timing chain and tensioner aswell. Anyone esle have some input on the matter befor i go and blow a few hundered dollars on new parts, hey maybe nows a good time to bore it out and put a larger piston in :'(

It looks to me as if you've covered everything, and if I understand you correctly, the condition existed before you replaced the carb.  How about the fully transistorized ignition system?  It consists of a signal generator ( which consists of 1 rotor tip and one pick up coil), ignitor, ignition coil and spark plug.  According to Suzuki, if the sparkplug fires an orange spark, the coil is defective.  I'd take off the sparkplug wire, attach it to a spare plug, ground the plug to the engine and try to start the bike, while watching the sparkplug fire in a darkened area.  You can more accurately check the coil by with an Volt/Ohm meter: check for continuity between the the primary and secondary windings.  The primary readings should be between 1-7 ohms.  The secondary readings should be between 10-25 ohms.  Next, I'd check the Pick Up Coil.  Remove the seat and the left frame cover. Measure the resistance between the lead ( orange and green) wires.  If it is infinity or less than 220 +or- 20%, then it is defective.  Next is the Ignitor (consisting of capacitors, diodes & etc.), but  unfortunately I can't tell you how to check it with a Volt/Ohm meter because according to Suzuki, the readings they give are only good for their special 'Pocket Tester'.

Its been my experience with transistorized ignition systems in automobiles that it often only takes one defective internal piece to change its electrical value, for the engine to no longer run right.  If I had your bike, I would first watch the color of the sparkpug spark, I would check the coil resistance readings, and after that I would see if I could find a cheap spare used Ignitor and put it on, and see if that does it.   And after that, I would throw on a used signal generator and see if that fixes the problem.  

Here is what the Clymer manual says can be the causes of "Engine loses power at normal riding speed":

1. Carb incorrectly adjusted.
2. Engine overheating.
3. Improper ignition timing due to faulty component in system  (remember, timing can look good when you check it, but be all over the place when riding at various rpms, if a part is faulty).

4. Weak ignition Signal Generator.
5. Weak or faulty Ignitor Unit.
6. Incorrectly gapped sparkplug.
7. Weak igniton coil.
8. Obstructed mufflers.
9. Dragging brakes.

I'd be willing to bet its something to do with the transistorized ignition system.  In any case, get back to us when you find the solution.

speedingman wrote on 04/30/09 at 16:01:23:



My gut feeling is that the timing is changing due to a defective solid state component changing its value under high rpm or load demands, or maybe the spark weakens at high rpm for the same reasons.

By the way, fuel hoses can weaken internally and collapse just enough to allow fuel to pass through, but not enough for high RPM.  I've seen them do this from age, and most certainly from the alcohol they now blend into gasoline, and from alcohol based additives like octane boosters and gas anti freeze, and others.  From the outside the fuel line looks fine, but inside it has partially collapsed.  It wouldn't hurt to replace it with Fuel Injection hose, which is designed to take the alcohol laced gasoline that is now sold.  At one time Harley had this problem and sent out a directive to replace their bikes hoses with the newer kind.