Gort
Ex Member
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It looks to me as if you've covered everything, and if I understand you correctly, the condition existed before you replaced the carb. How about the fully transistorized ignition system? It consists of a signal generator ( which consists of 1 rotor tip and one pick up coil), ignitor, ignition coil and spark plug. According to Suzuki, if the sparkplug fires an orange spark, the coil is defective. I'd take off the sparkplug wire, attach it to a spare plug, ground the plug to the engine and try to start the bike, while watching the sparkplug fire in a darkened area. You can more accurately check the coil by with an Volt/Ohm meter: check for continuity between the the primary and secondary windings. The primary readings should be between 1-7 ohms. The secondary readings should be between 10-25 ohms. Next, I'd check the Pick Up Coil. Remove the seat and the left frame cover. Measure the resistance between the lead ( orange and green) wires. If it is infinity or less than 220 +or- 20%, then it is defective. Next is the Ignitor (consisting of capacitors, diodes & etc.), but unfortunately I can't tell you how to check it with a Volt/Ohm meter because according to Suzuki, the readings they give are only good for their special 'Pocket Tester'.
Its been my experience with transistorized ignition systems in automobiles that it often only takes one defective internal piece to change its electrical value, for the engine to no longer run right. If I had your bike, I would first watch the color of the sparkpug spark, I would check the coil resistance readings, and after that I would see if I could find a cheap spare used Ignitor and put it on, and see if that does it. And after that, I would throw on a used signal generator and see if that fixes the problem.
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