First, thanks to Ed L. for developing and selling the forward controls.  The 4" forward extension makes things more comfortable for me.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1202177312/0

Installing the controls is a moderately difficult job.  It'll go OK for anyone with patience, ability to follow instructions, and the ability to figure out how to make things fit.

The plates were mill finish aluminum with rough cut edges.  I (very carefully) rounded the edges on my router table with a 1/8" carbide roundover bit using very slow feed and very, very shallow depth of cut.  I put a piece of crocus cloth in my palm sander and smoothed the outside faces, then polished them on a buffing wheel.

The right side plate was hard up against the exhaust pipe and didn't match the mounting bolt.  I had to cut away about 3/16" of the plate to clear the exhaust and meet the lower mounting bolt, plus about an 1/8"  cut  away in the notch so the footpeg nut would clear.  By the way, coat any cutting tools intended for steel with kerosene or silicone lube so the aluminum doesn't load them up right away.

The left side plate needed the two holes drilled out a 64th oversize so the 10mm through bolts would pass.  Both the right side bolt for the brake cable bracket and the cross brace were too short for the threads to engage the nylon in the lock nuts.  The shifter rod threads worked OK, but were ragged.  Either the dies were dull, or the initial cut was too deep, or cutting oil was lacking.  I had to chamfer the end of the upper through bolt so it would slide back through the engine case.  I didn't need all the 15 washers on the list, and the instruction to put the bolt into the brake cable mounting bracket should have had the bolt installed before the cables were in the bracket.  Installing the clip for the brake light cable on the outside of the pin vs. the inside as shown results in a straighter pull on the cable.  I'd like the brake lever to be a bit more upright, and may have to use the acetylene wrench to get that.  And, I'd like to keep metric things all metric, not mix metric and fraction nuts.

So, yes, I'd do it again, and I like the result for my long legs.

Sent my money order to Ed this week, did everyone experience these snags or just a select few. My mouthed drop when Ed wrote saying it should take me 5-6 hrs to install depending on mechanical skills!!  
Not sure if I'm looking forward to this anymore.  

Mine went on just fine.  The instructions were great.

I sent my check this week I will let you know how mine go on.  I hope I get the easy to install ones!

Prechermike I'm with you on this one. Have my fingers crossed!

NewThumperGuy wrote on 04/23/09 at 12:42:46:

My Universal Laws---
---Nothing is as easy as it looks.
---Most half-hour jobs take ninety minutes.

Be patient.  Look everything over closely.  Study Ed's photos he sends with the kit and the Chilton manual photos he refers to...print them if you choose.  Lay things out in logical order.  Get your tools ready.  Do put the 1" long bolt (not 3/4") through the brake cable bracket before you put the cables into the slots, contrary to Ed's instructions.  Find a local hardware store or fastener supplier (nuts & bolts) for the list of fasteners in Ed's instructions.  Buy a new 1/16" diameter x 3/4" long cotter pin for the brake cable keeper.  If something really does not fit, contact this forum, or Ed, or a friend who's a craftsman about what to do.

Well after reading all the replies I'm breathing easier again  
Thanks to all.

PTrider thx to you for your input, where do I find this Chilton manual??

If I was to eliminate Kick stand safety on this install, what do I have to do?

If I was to eliminate Kick stand safety on this install, what do I have to do? [/quote]

tye the two wires together from the bike side
i extended the wires on mine and  am still training mysef to keep my heel from hittin the stand and killin the engine