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air filter question (Read 328 times)
haulback
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air filter question
04/19/09 at 18:14:10
 
Just ordered lancer jetset for my '08 S40.

Wondering in anyone hass had experience with the K&N filter that is a drop-in replacement for the stock one??  part # su-6595...

I understnd that the K&N cone filter is better, and would be happy to use it, but an unsure how much drama is involved in modifying the airbox etc to make it all fit inside.

I did find and older post that had a bunch of pictures with it showing the process, but they had all been sent to photobucket, and for some reason I can't seem to get in for a look

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1118719528

If it is too big a deal, I may wait and do the cone filter when I swap out the stock muffler later on.

Thanks......

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Re: air filter question
Reply #1 - 04/19/09 at 18:20:58
 
The change over from stock to k&n may not need a change in jet if you have already richened it up from stock.  I had a 150 in and swapped, didn't notice much difference in popping.
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Re: air filter question
Reply #2 - 04/19/09 at 18:23:50
 
The drop in k/n filter takes no modding to fit, and it is better than the cone... the cone does not fit inside the airbox, it is outside the box..
The cone is cheaper.  And if you don't like the look of the airbox, the cone filter allows you to get rid of it.  But the airbox is there for a reason.  Reducing intake noise and intake air turbulance, and protecting the filter from weather.
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Re: air filter question
Reply #3 - 04/19/09 at 19:36:37
 
Serowbot is 100% on.  The airbox is designed to smooth air turbulence among other things.  Turbulence decreases performance.  The famous racer Smokey Yurnick in his book "Hot Rodding the Small Block Chevy" proved this, and advised performance enthusiasts to leave the air cleaner housing on an engine.  Eliminating air turbulence is a science and you can't just change the factory design and think you've achieved it, without the proper test equipment.
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Re: air filter question
Reply #4 - 04/19/09 at 19:49:37
 
Ditto.  Do the testing if you want to change the design and maximize the potential.  It's labor and time intensive but definitely well worth it.
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Re: air filter question
Reply #5 - 04/19/09 at 23:55:47
 
Arthur wrote on 04/19/09 at 19:36:37:
Serowbot is 100% on.

diamond jim wrote on 04/19/09 at 19:49:37:
Ditto.  


Geez!,... I love it when I'm 100% right... Grin
wait a minute?.. Huh... It's never happened before,....
thinkin',...thinkin', thinkin'.... Undecided
Yup, I love it....  Grin

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Re: air filter question
Reply #6 - 04/20/09 at 06:32:21
 
Thanks for the enlightenment.  

Because of all the chat about switching to cone filter, I naturally though it was to be preferred. Nice to find that the drop-in replacement is actually more efficent.

Although forums being what they are, there maybe others that disagree.

However,I will go ahead and order a su-6595

thanks again.
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Re: air filter question
Reply #7 - 04/20/09 at 07:31:33
 
Filter efficiency is measured on how much dirt the filter catches vs. how much it allows to pass through, not how well the air flows through it.*   No filter element is 100% efficient (i. e., catches all the dirt).  What we want is a filter that allows as much flow as possible for as long as possible while stopping just about every particle big enough to cause engine wear.

I'm not a K&N fan, so....

Has anyone done any good testing on the performance of a new OEM air filter element vs. a new aftermarket stock-type element like a $15 HiFloFiltro vs. a new or newly cleaned $60 K&N element? 

In my car I've seen the poor filtration of a K&N with dirt on the downstream side of the air box that was never there with an OEM filter element, and the good testing I've seen of the K&N filters has the same results.  The tests I've seen show that the K&N filter flows a lot less air than OEM when it is dirty than an OEM filter with the same amount (by weight) of dirt in it.  Plus, cleaning and re-oiling the K&N element can be a sloppy mess.


*Filter efficiency is the ratio of particles trapped by a filter over the total number of particles found in the air upstream of the filter. A count of the downstream particles is often used to determine the number of particles trapped by the filter. Filter efficiency can either be based on specific particle size ranges or based on the total number of particles of all sizes. There are numerous testing procedures utilized for determining filter efficiency.
http://www.filterair.info/articles/article.cfm/ArticleID/3CB961AC-F5FA-4A28-B...
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Re: air filter question
Reply #8 - 04/20/09 at 07:58:15
 
Testing of an air filter cannot be done accurately or conclusively without some very expensive equipment.  I doubt you will find a more extensive and professional test of air filters anywhere other than this:

http://duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm
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Re: air filter question
Reply #9 - 04/20/09 at 09:45:35
 
Arthur wrote on 04/20/09 at 07:58:15:
Testing of an air filter cannot be done accurately or conclusively without some very expensive equipment.  I doubt you will find a more extensive and professional test of air filters anywhere other than this:

http://duramax-diesel.com/spicer/index.htm


That is a terrific read.
A gander at the info contained therein is all that is needed.   Unless unable, keep the air-box and stock filter element (assuming it is made similar to the AC Delco ) for anything but the most radical engine setup.
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Re: air filter question
Reply #10 - 04/20/09 at 09:52:52
 
Despite all the info against its use, I use a cheap cone filter anyway cause I like the intake noise.  After all, the bike is supposed to be fun, no?
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Re: air filter question
Reply #11 - 04/20/09 at 10:22:42
 
Arthur wrote on 04/20/09 at 09:52:52:
Despite all the info against its use, I use a cheap cone filter anyway cause I like the intake noise.  After all, the bike is supposed to be fun, no?

Oh yeah!,.. definitely.... Grin
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Re: air filter question
Reply #12 - 04/20/09 at 10:26:07
 
Ditto again!
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Re: air filter question
Reply #13 - 04/21/09 at 09:39:37
 
I currently have my K&N cone filter (#1250) attached to the carb straight up.  Has any one compared this setup to leaving the "snorkel" between the carb and filter (be it a cone or factory/aftermarket/airbox filter.  Would the added distance help or hurt airflow turbulance/efficiency ...

or, are we looking at nothing but an additional ugly rubber spacer... lol

Wolf  Cheesy
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Re: air filter question
Reply #14 - 04/21/09 at 09:58:43
 
Just as the exhaust has certain "needs" to work right, so does the intake. Maybe its not as complex, IDK, I dont really get how to tune an exhaust. Ive read a little on intake design & the volume of air between the filter & carb has some effect, according to one article I read. If a guy can get an airbox large enough to hold enough air for an intake stroke, then the power to such air thru the filter wont be lost. I know, its not much & maybe its not even measurable, But, I didnt write the article. Maybe the guys who understand exhausts, like KLX & a few others, would like to get in on this. I need it.Y'all teach some, okay?
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