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Successful DIY- painting bike parts (Read 453 times)
Successful DIY- painting bike parts
04/17/09 at 11:20:23
I started to post this for Simon's future project of painting his awesome new custom longshot exhaust but thought it better to put it here instead and post a link in his thread.
Here's the steps that have worked for me time and again when painting metal bike stuff with rattle can paint. This method has proven itself well whether the item to be painted requires regular paint or high-heat paint.
1. Get these items:
paint (get good paint- avoid the generic 97 cents a can specials)
clear coat (gloss, semi-gloss or flat)
paint prep (spray can type that you can get at Autozone)
primer (get same brand as the paint)
medium-fine grit sandpaper
fine grit sandpaper
common box fan (18"-20")
wire to suspend the item
clean box to set item on
garden hose ready to wash off the item
Shake all of the cans real good and store at room temperature until ready to use.
1. Sand metal item with medium-fine grit sandpaper to scuff it some for the paint to stick good.
2. Sand with fine sandpaper to smooth it out a little.
3. Go outdoors and find and area that you can suspend the item with the wire (tree branch) and can be reached with a garden hose.
4. Get the paint prep can and spray prep onto the metal piece to clean. Coat it really good. This will remove all of the dirt and oil on the metal surface and in the little microscopic grooves. While the item is still wet with the paint prep (don't let it dry), rinse item with the garen hose but
don't touch the item with hose or hands
. Let the water runover it being sure to run water over any little joints or corners. Let dry in the sun/wind for a half hour.
5. Set up the fan in a clean area that won't be blowing dust around. Also set up a way to hang the item in front of the fan or box to set the item on in front of the fan to ensure complete drying. Moisture remianing in any little nook or cranny of the metal item will cause premature failing of the paint. Turn the fan on high and let the item dry for at least a half hour. Drying longer won't hurt a bit.
From this point forward, whenver you handle the part, always put on a fresh set of rubber gloves. This will help keep you from getting skin oils back on to the metal duing the priming, painting and clear coating. Skin oils and moinsture are your enemies
.) Remove suspended item and place/hang in front of the fan. Leave it there at least a half hour.
7. Get the primer and more rubber gloves. Put on the rubber gloves and suspend the item/set it somewhere to paint. Spray with primer.
8. Let it dry in place for 10 minutes then place item in front of the fan for another 10 minutes (don't forget the gloves before handling.) Repeat again two get 2 completed and dried coats of primer.
9. Suspend item again (new gloves!), spray with paint. Let dry 0 minutes then another 10 minutes in front of the fan. Repeat three times (new gloves each time) to get 3 completed and dried coats of paint.
10. Do the same hang/spray/dry technique for spraying clear coat. I usualy do 2 coats of clear.
11. When all done spraying and drying, I'll either place the item in the sun for a few hours to cure (if sunny outside) or in front of the fan all night.
12. Lastly, I'll add a coat of polish to it then a second coat a few days later.
This paint method takes some patience and is doen best when you are working on something else and can keep stepping away for a minute to paint or move the item. It may seem like an excessive number of steps but I can assure you that each time I've done it this way the items have turned out looking great and proved durable. Doing less than this method I've found will give you a lower quality result in either appeance or durability. I've used the 10 min hang dry/0 minute fan dry cause I often get inpatient. If you want to let the items dry longer between coats that is perfectly fine. I'd avoid reducing the dry time though between coats.
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