You might be a little more explicit about what you are trying to do. Except for the starter wiring you can probably use 16 gauge wire for pretty much everything. If you are going to combine a lot of circuits onto one wire you might use 14 gauge. The ground (return) wire needs to be just as big as the supply wire. You will need to make sure to run a ground wire between the fork assembly and the frame, or else you are depending on the conductivity of the greased head bearings. Electrically, it is better to use return wires and not depend on the frame for anything. The body and frame is used for a return in cars because it is cheaper and easier, not because it is better.

hey thanks guys!

It's not that hard. I kinda speak copper language If you gonna use the simplified diagram, there's really mostly cutting wires and getting rid of them. Unless you want to move components around. What exactly do you need? What do you want to get as the final result?

The parking light wire is not just the parking light - it is also the running taillight. When the ignition switch is put into Park it connects the battery line to the taillight and disconnects everything else. So if you connect the starter relay to that, the starter will run but the ignition will be off. You should be able to get an Off-On-Start switch off pretty much any riding lawn mower with electric start, if that's the idea. I presume you intend to disconnect or bypass the clutch, kickstand, and neutral safety interlocks, too. For that, you are on your own. I will not advise anyone on bypassing safeties, as I think it rather foolhardy to do so.

well pulled the ol' Savage Bible out I downloaded.... well I have succesfully rewired the bike... even though it looks like nuts... it works for what I need! I am almost done with the Ultimate RAT SAVAGE!

I kept it for now! I will get rid of it later!