1st, is it charging from the bike? Got 14volts at ?rpm ?
2nd, pull neg term off, use an amp meter to detect current while ig is off, and on.

Thanks versalagen1 where exactly do i check if it is charging from the bike, sorry if this is a dumb question, but i think i know where this is going, do you think my bike is not charging the battery, and i ran on the battery charge all week untill it was dead,(only a 10 min ride to and from work) I will run these two checks tonight when i get home. what is the worst case scenario? should i still have the starter checked?

The voltage regulator is supposed to be under the seat, unless someone moved it for style purposes. There should be a connector with three yellow wires. Those three wires come from the alternator, in the engine. Disconnect the connector. Using an ohmmeter and measuring back toward the engine, you should have continuity from any of the three to the others. There should be no continuity to ground from any of the three. If you don't have continuity, follow the wiring down to the engine. It comes out of the engine near the drive pulley, and if it isn't properly secured it can move against the belt and get damaged. If you find damage, repair it (butt-splice crimp connectors work just fine). Recheck. You can then verify alternator output. Start the engine and rev it up a bit above idle. Using a voltmeter set to measure AC volts, measure between all combinations of the three wires. You should get enough voltage (should be over 100 volts at 5000 rpm) to attract your attention if you touch it. If that passes the problem is likely the regulator.

There are really only two parts in the charging system. One is the alternator stator, which you can check with an ohmmeter and a voltmeter as above. Note that it is possible for a wire to break inside its insulation, so you need the ohmmeter to check it out. The other is the voltage regulator, which as a practical matter you can check only by substitution. Neither is repairable. According to Clymer, some Suzuki dealerships have whatever test setup exists to check the regulator. You can purchase another regulator and try substitution, but once an electrical part leaves the dealership it is usually not returnable for any reason.