"Loud pipes save lives"

Prove it. Cite a study.

If that statement is true, then every vehicle should have loud pipes. Including trucks, buses, locomotives, automobiles, and motorcycles. What loud pipes really do is show that you care nothing for the rest of society - those forced involuntarily to listen to your noise.

With that new pipe, don't forget to rejet and do the needle-spacer mod.
Otherwise you'll be running way too lean and it will blue that pretty header pipe.
My header pipe still looks new with absolutely no blue-ing after 10 thousand miles.

Have fun

ok, thanks! but how do i rejet & what is the needle-spacer mod?

vtail wrote on 03/14/09 at 17:49:38:

congrats!
1. tell her the exhaust will get hot enough to burn holes in her pants if it rest against the pipe.
2. teach her how to pick up the bike.
3. Make sure she knows what to do in a low side so it don't become a high side.
4. at least get her high top tenni's

ok, hope I get this right as the hind brain knows better.

low side, loosing traction in the rear wheel so it slides causing the seat to loose altitude.  Can be caused by locking the rear wheel or sand.

high side, what happens if the rear wheel suddenly finds traction before the seat meets pavement.  The sudden rise of the seat usually bucks the occupant over the handlebars.

She liked it Yea......


Now you need to get her a rack or saddle bags so she when she needs to run an errand, she will have an excuse to ride.....

We rejet to correct the epa mandated lean run carb.
This by itself can cause the backfire issue so many complain of.
It will also cause the header to turn gold then blue due to overheating.

1st pull your sparkplug and compare
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1222357450/1#1

next remove the brass plug and adjust your idle mixture
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1221818822

This usually fixes most people but you've also changed you exhaust and that may affect the adjustment of the main jet.  I've got a simple test for that.  Find yourself a good long grade, one that you can go up WOT (wide open throttle) and get a steady speed with at wot.  Now back off the throttle alittle bit, does it seem to pick up a little?  If it does, you need the next size up.

The white spacer or needle spacer mod is little more difficult to determine need.  At least I think so cause I don't need.  Problems like surging while cruising along or lack of get up and go may be a reason to mess with it.

You want to tackle these mods one at a time.  Get a good feel for whats wrong then you know what you're looking for.  and read the carb tuning posts and how-to's while you're waiting.

You have a lot to read up about carbs to fully understand this 're-jet' concept.  I will try and paraphrase it for you:

Carbs control the air/fuel mixture going into the engine.  When you change either the air filter or exhaust you need to change the air/fuel mixture to match the new air filter or exhaust combo.  The way you do this is replace the stock jets in the carb.  There is a pilot jet, a needle jet and a main jet.  The pilot jet as well as the brass screw on the right side of the carb controls the idle and 1/4 of the low end throttle air/fuel mix.  The needle jet (the white spacer in the slide area of the carb) control the mid range air/fuel mix and the main jet controls the upper realm of the throttle air/fuel mix.  The stock jets make the bike run pretty lean from the factory on purpose.  Changing the pilot and main jet to bigger jets along with making the white spacer smaller usually fixes these air/fuel problems when an air filter that allows more air is added or an exhaust that allows more flow is added.  Hope this helps and I'm sure I missed something, but this is the basics.

-Matt