You really had me scared to try the white spacer mod for my carb  But after riding today in a gale with the bike bucking and jumping I had to do something.  But there was all this talk about buggering up the four screws that hold the top on the carb.  Let me just say I have bugger up, rounded off, broke and generally messed up my share of srews and bolts.  The screws were tight and I did use an impact driver to get them out, but that was no problem!

I did have trouble with the #4 washers.  They were too big to fit into the hole, I ended up with 2 #4 nylon washers.

But that did make a world of difference in the way she ran.  I just took a short ride, but NO more bucking and jerking.

Thanks for the good instructions in the tech section.

Mike

I'll agree the #4 washers they are selling now are too large an OD. The specs for a #4 OD is 0.250 which should work. I bought from 4 different stores and they all ran about 0.270 so they will not drop down in the piston. I ended up sanding down one of the #4 nylon ones as they are the same as stock when stacked 2 deep. Haven't been able to try it yet as it is still freezing during the day here. Max

I was gonna do the washer mod, when I realized the needle on mine has a clip and three notches! Left the original white washer intact, raised the needle one notch up, it worked like a dream. 130 stock main with 47.5 stock idle. Now 150 main, 50 idle, K&N cone, harley electra (or road king) muffler, 2.5'' ID, no baffle. Mix screw 3 turns out.

Here it is

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1104205157/25#25

It is an easy thing to do, they tell you how, but it is very straightforward.  I do recommned the impact driver thing though,  I did it in about an hour, with a trrible headache and had to go to town for the washers.

Mike

The booger for me wasn't the four screws on top, but the three in the slide tube that hold the needle and spacer... nearly lost it on those...

The white plastic spacer puts the taper in the needle in the needle jet at the place the manufacturer wants it to meet emissions regulations. Raise the needle and you run slightly richer. Old way was with clips in grooves cut in the needle top part. The spacer stops the upward travel of the needle from the spring under it. By reducing the spacer thickness the needle is raised by the spring and a smaller diameter portion of the taper is in the needle jet. By using a spacer it makes it "tamper resistant" a term the EPA uses to minimize tampering with the system. I have a vague recollections of 'tamper resistant' meaning took longer than 30 minutes to defeat it on automotive stuff. Max

gravity and the aging diaphram on the slide.