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I think I need a clutch (Read 292 times)
Toymaker
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I think I need a clutch
12/21/08 at 18:17:00
 
so where do I get one....Clutches are Us? Smiley
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Re: I think I need a clutch
Reply #1 - 12/21/08 at 18:23:46
 
Did you adjust the lever so that it engages about 3/4" to 1" out?????  

At the beginning of the Sept '08 PA ride, PhotoJoe's was slipping when we blew out some carbon.    I looked at it and it engaged at around 1/2".    A tweak out a bit on where it started to grab and it worked better.



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Re: I think I need a clutch
Reply #2 - 12/22/08 at 03:33:18
 
Don't forget to rough up your steel plates with a finishing sander while you have them out.  Also check them for flatness (rock).

You can find stock plates.  You can find Barrett plates.  But can you find EBC plates ???

Good luck!   Post us with what you can locate at a good deal.
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Re: I think I need a clutch
Reply #3 - 12/22/08 at 03:45:29
 
https://www.partsnmore.com/motorcycle_clutch_plates.php?make=Suzuki&purpose=S...

Will sell single plates at $6 a pop.   With shipping that's $35 for a full set.

Save me your old friction plates, don't trash can them.

Oldfeller
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Toymaker
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Re: I think I need a clutch
Reply #4 - 12/22/08 at 05:00:28
 
Do I just need the friction plates?  Is there a particular order ie.  are they all the same thickness?

Do I rough up both sides of the metal plates?


I have never done a bike clutch...yes I do have a clymers... Smiley

What about the springs?
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: I think I need a clutch
Reply #5 - 12/22/08 at 05:51:50
 
I shimmed the springs. Note the machined flats for the springs to sit in are different depths. I tried to find washers as close to the same thickness as possible & ground them to fit inside the machined circle the springs sit in.Take a digital calliper with you when you go shopping. The thicknesses vary wildly , or did at Lowes.
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Re: I think I need a clutch
Reply #6 - 12/22/08 at 16:01:35
 
There is a lot of text on the site concerning folks not being happy about replacement friction plates NOT doing what they thought they would do for as long as they thought they were going to get them to do it.   We have folks getting real short service life out of replacement clutch packs ....

Cruxt of the data was that the friction plates they pull out are still within service spec limits on thickness -- sorta the same tale as our cam chains.  They ran out of adjustment, actually -- plates still seem to be serviceable thick.

Justin is referring to adding some spring tension force to the existing springs to get some extra clamp force.   Me, I'd resurface the steel plates to take away that fine wear polish that they have developed over time.  This will help them to "work like new' again for a while.

I am also asking you to save me the friction plates that you take out that are still within service spec limits as I want to take a look at them to see what the cork material has turned into that won't hold a decent coefficent of friction any more.

Yes, you fine grit finish sander sand both sides of the plain steel plates, check them for warp and then you reuse them.

=======================

Me, I am curious.  We have a clutch cable with a threaded adjustment range built into it.  That's all the adjustment we get.   Then we have to replace friction plates.  

I question that assumption.

That cable threaded gizmo, it interfaces with a pushrod system that disengages the clutch -- the push rod is a simple piece of steel that along with the clutch cable adjustment screw determines the total range of adjustment (service life) we can get out of our bike's clutch.

Now, if there is appreciable meat still left on the friction plates, then I betcha playing games with the rod length will move the clutch pack adjustment back to "new" range of motion again.   Or an intelligent fiddle with some sort of cable spacer up at the clutch lever side of the cable could move the range around as well.  

Which is easier to do?   Which would work better?   How long could it string things out before the clutch friction plates really do go bald?

Dunno.  Got questions, no answers yet.

For the fun of it -- you have pulled your down low cable adjustment screw "up" about as far as it can go.  Loosen it, put it back down all the way  and then check out the extra slop in in the junction of the cable with all the slop pulled up to the top of the cable next to the clutch lever.  Whittle a piece of wood to take up this slop and see if your clutch "healed itself" because it has correct adjustment ranges back again.

It doesn't cost anything to play with it .....  tell us what happened.

Could a stretched out worn out cable be robbing folks of the service life out of those replacement clutch packs they just put in?

Dunno.   Need to get there myself and play with it ....

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Re: I think I need a clutch
Reply #7 - 12/22/08 at 18:05:30
 
What about adding anouther set of plates to the pack?
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justin_o_guy2
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Re: I think I need a clutch
Reply #8 - 12/23/08 at 00:13:07
 
On auto applications, as the clutch wears, "Toe-Play" on the pedal goes away. Now IF a guy has adjusted ( loosened) the clutch lever & still cant get free play, he could get another rod ( the one inside the end of the clutch pack) & shorten it.
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Re: I think I need a clutch
Reply #9 - 12/23/08 at 03:25:42
 
Why do you think I want Toymaker's worn but still in service spec plates?  Yeah, you can add a friction/steel if there is enough room in the stackup.  Or you can make enough room with a custom push rod.  That solution would actually make up a more robust clutch.

Lots of possibilities .....
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Re: I think I need a clutch
Reply #10 - 12/23/08 at 04:41:28
 
interresting subject... my clutch is slipping since i `m using the special webcam of Lancer and a ported head.


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Re: I think I need a clutch
Reply #11 - 12/23/08 at 05:57:42
 
Now for the real pisser -- cork compresses over time.  It is an organic tree bark for goodness sake.

Throw them "dead friction disks" into a pot of boiling soapy water for a few hours (measure them before and after).

Grew some, didn't they?  Got re-hydrated with H20 and some of the oil boiled out of them.  What does any form of wood do when it gets soaked?  It swells up.

Bake 'em dry in the oven so they harden up in the "as swelled" configuration.

===============

I would like to find some Kevlar friction plates for our bike since Kevlar doesn't have some of these issues.  No luck so far.
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Re: I think I need a clutch
Reply #12 - 12/23/08 at 06:18:43
 
Our bike's clutch plates are the same as the SP 500 dirt bike.  The EBC part number for these bikes is CK3359.  

The place I listed earlier will sell individual clutch plates that tally up with shipping to cost less than these EBC cork plates would cost.

I still have not located any kevlar plates for our bike except for Barnett plate kits that cost $135 (which is way out of line price wise).

One source listed the plates for our bike as same as GS 400 & GS 500 street bike.  Unable to verify this by a second source.
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Re: I think I need a clutch
Reply #13 - 12/23/08 at 07:32:04
 
Aha!  Gotcha!  

Our friction plates are listed by a source as being same-same as the first generation SV650, only difference being plate count with Savage having 5 frictions and a special plate and the SV650 1st gen bike having six friction plates and a special plate.  First gen was 1999 up thru 2002 and it was a squid bike, so maybe EBC will make some kevlar clutch plates for it eventually.

Shame is that right now apparently only Barrett makes kevlar plates for those particular bikes ..... for $150.

EBC does not list the bike in their sports bike kevlar clutch listings at this time.  Keep checking though, EBC is still rolling out their product lines and eventually the GS500 or the SV650 will pull us into the modern Kevlar era.
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« Last Edit: 12/23/08 at 10:27:14 by Oldfeller--FSO »  

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Re: I think I need a clutch
Reply #14 - 12/23/08 at 07:48:39
 
fsmidt wrote on 12/23/08 at 04:41:28:
interresting subject... my clutch is slipping since i `m using the special webcam of Lancer and a ported head.





Better do something before it gets worse
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