I just completed a carburetor modification using a kit I bought from Lancer. I made note of the bolt sizes on my Mikuni BS40 carburetor and they are listed on a post in the tech. section. For anyone doing their first tear-down on their Susuki here are some things I found that you may want to make a mental note of: I was positive I missed some hidden bolt securing the fuel tank to the frame. It was really tight in the two 1/2 circle areas around the rubber pads. Be prepared to remove the battery and battery box and top cover. The bowl cover was so close to the battery box I do not believe I could have slid the carburetor back enough to come loose from the cylinder intake housing. The rubber tubing from the carb. to the airbox can be bent in fairly easily to allow its removal which will give you plenty of clearance to remove and replace the carburetor. Don't even attempt to loosen the carburetor bolts with a standard Phillips screwdriver. (some of you can't stand tools bought at Harbor Freight but they have a small impact driver with several bits that worked great and only costs a few bucks). I did a little cursing when trying to reinstall the battery box as it was jammed in tightly against the air filter box and the 4 bolts were a devil to get started. Space is tight too. When I got ready to put the fuel tank back on I put a couple of strips of masking tape on the sides of the tank in the same relative area that the rubber bumpers were located in relation to the frame member on the inside.  Watch that the small electrical box on the front right side clears the tank as you slide it in.
The bike started right up but I did have to adjust the throttle stop in a little to increase the idle speed to keep it running. I was expecting just the opposite to be the case.??? Running along in first gear seems a whole lot smoother, without the stumbling it had before. After you have had the bike apart once these things seem kind of dumb but they give you some insight in what you might expect.