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› time to re torque the head?
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time to re torque the head? (Read 156 times)
Dee
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time to re torque the head?
09/27/08 at 18:01:21
Hi, I have 9000 miles on my ls650. I am losing oil thru the head. In my manuel it says that it is time to re torque the head. Can I do this myself? Is there a link on here with directions that anyone can help me thru this.
I can & have changed the oil a few times & also tightened my belt using the little tool in the toolkit.
Thanks for any help, Dee
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Thanks, Dee
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EssForty
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Re: time to re torque the head?
Reply #1 -
09/27/08 at 18:49:54
Dee:
Retorquing the head bolts is a pretty big step up from oil changes and belt adjustments. It's certainly something anyone with moderate wrenching skills and a Clymer's manual can learn to do. It does require a good torque wrench, a set of metric sockets and spanners. You can't do it with the tool kit alone. The process is documented on this site and in the Clymers manual.
It is also one of those things that can lead to a lot of rookie errors if you've never done it before. If the Savage is your only form of transportation, I'd suggest you find a trusted friend or family member who is a pretty good mechanic and let them walk you through it. If you do not have any mechanic pals, then try to find a good repair shop.
If the head is leaking oil badly you should not be riding it. How much oil is it losing? Is it leaving a puddle under the bike or just an occasional drip? Are you adding oil each week?
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06 S40, Deuce shield, OEM saddlebags & Engine Guard, ENM tach, Sigma 1106 Speedo, oil pressure & voltage gauges, grip puppies, Kuryakyn Ellipse mirrors, ISO pegs & throttle boss
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thumperclone
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Re: time to re torque the head?
Reply #2 -
09/27/08 at 18:57:19
search "plug leak" in the tech section...
w/o lookin at the ssm me thinks every service interval is re tourque time...
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Dee
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Re: time to re torque the head?
Reply #3 -
09/27/08 at 19:10:02
I don't seem to be losing much oil, It was on my battery cover after my last two 200+ mile rides. There isn't any on the floor or drips anywhere else. I have been searching the site and saved some info. I will be doing more research before I get out the tools! I still have a few weeks to ride and will keep an eye on my oil level then will figure out what the problem is. Might be a plug which looks like I can handle. Thanks, Dee
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T Mack 1 - FSO
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Re: time to re torque the head?
Reply #4 -
09/27/08 at 19:46:31
Dee,
I see you're profile says PA. If you are anywhere near Allentown/Bethlehem area, I have the tools, if you are willing to learn and get you hand dirty, I can show you how.
Takes maybe 2-4 hour's, plus cool down time.
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EssForty
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Re: time to re torque the head?
Reply #5 -
09/28/08 at 04:18:29
Here is the link to the head cover plug leak. It also gives you an idea how many bolts need to be removed to retorque your head bolts.
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1099227295
If this plug is not reinstalled properly, including high temp sealant, you're likely to see the leaks you describe. It can look like someone airbrushed your battery cover and/or side cover with a film of oil after a long ride. You can ride it with a small leak from the plug cap, but make sure you keep an eye on your oil level before and after your rides.
You or your mechanic friend will have to remove and reinstall this plug when you retorque the head nuts anyway, so you'll be able to fix the problem. If you've not inspected your valve lash either, it would be a good time for that inspection/adjustment as well.
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06 S40, Deuce shield, OEM saddlebags & Engine Guard, ENM tach, Sigma 1106 Speedo, oil pressure & voltage gauges, grip puppies, Kuryakyn Ellipse mirrors, ISO pegs & throttle boss
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Charon
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Re: time to re torque the head?
Reply #6 -
09/28/08 at 06:41:39
According to my Clymer, retorquing the head requires removal of the head cover, on which are mounted the rocker arms. It goes on to say that on some motorcycles, depending on the tolerances on the day of production, removal of the head cover may require removing the engine from the frame. I believe others on the Forum have said removing some of the engine mounting bolts will allow the engine to move enough to get that cover off. Seems to me like a design oversight on Suzuki's part.
Suzuki isn't the only culprit in requiring head bolts to be retorqued periodically. That, too, seems like bad design. When is the last time you had to retorque head bolts on a car (given that you didn't remove the head)? If we use the line about the engine's being air cooled instead of water cooled, I ask when is the last time you retorqued the head bolts on your lawn mower? If Briggs and Stratton can build engines that last for years - even decades - without requiring head bolts to be retorqued, why can't Suzuki? Come to think of it, I don't believe the old VW Beetle's air cooled flat four required retorquing of the head bolts.
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EssForty
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Re: time to re torque the head?
Reply #7 -
09/28/08 at 06:56:13
You can remove the head cover without removing the engine. It's a little tricky but not too bad.
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06 S40, Deuce shield, OEM saddlebags & Engine Guard, ENM tach, Sigma 1106 Speedo, oil pressure & voltage gauges, grip puppies, Kuryakyn Ellipse mirrors, ISO pegs & throttle boss
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SuziQ
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Re: time to re torque the head?
Reply #8 -
09/28/08 at 10:56:17
Dee,
There are different schools of thought on torquing and re-torquing again and again and again. When does it stop and is it really necessary? I am going to find out with my new S40 as I will check and adjust the valves as required but I'm contemplating not touching the head bolts. My liquid cooled Honda VFR doesn't call for any re-torquing ever and my air cooled CM250C Honda (Rebel) doesn't call for any re-torquing and after 25 years (1983 Vintage) there has never been a problem. Even the valve gap seldom ever varies out of spec. If re-torquing, the engine should be cold and each fastener loosened off slightly one at a time, it is not possible to take an accurate torque reading from a static or tightened or seized position. The final reading requires a single smooth sweep of the torque wrench to the final specified torque to arrive at an intelligent reading. In retrospect back in the dinosaur age of the say 60's, English Healeys and Minis and MGs etc called for a free warranty inspection at 1000 miles where it was specified to check the torque on the cylinder head bolts at such time I never found any that ever required tightening. This is a moot topic and I'm sure there are many opinions and some from experience.
John
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Digger
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Re: time to re torque the head?
Reply #9 -
11/30/08 at 21:12:21
SuziQ wrote
on 09/28/08 at 10:56:17:
.....There are different schools of thought on torquing and re-torquing again and again and again. When does it stop and is it really necessary?.....
One thing that's different about my Savage compared to about every other bike I've ever owned is that the studs the head nuts screw to extend down to the cylinder base. They are very long.
Perhaps this is one reason Suzuki recommends torquing the head nuts (an onerous procedure, overall) every 3500 miles.
Thoughts?
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Digger
2001, Metallic Glacial Blue, Raptor Petcock, Verslavy (first hole) (otherwise, mechanically, the bike is stock), 13,xxx miles
I don't own a cage.
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