6 is sloppy. I set them at .003. After I finally set them like that, they didnt need adjusted again for a long time. When I was using .004 & .005, they needed adjusted at 5,000 or less. I found one that needed snugged on the last checkup.

I had to bend the feeler gauges up pretty bad, now, when I do it, I loosen the adj. & get the feeler in there, shug down on it & establish that I CAN push it, if only slightly, then pull & push as I set the adjuster. An offset screwdriver to hold the adjuster while setting the jam nut really makes it easy.

I used tio think the way you do, about the valve stem growing with the heat, then someone pointed out that the valve face grows, too & as it is across the valve seat, it pulls the valve down in the cylinder some, so that offsets the length change. Which one "wins" I dont think anyone knows, Cant remember.

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 09/18/08 at 23:28:29:


Warm clearances are tighter. You can check the clearances when the lump's hot, then again when it has cooled down. That's the reason there is a clearance and it is supposed to be adjusted with engine cold. If valve clearances grew when the engine warms up, you could tighten them solid in a cold engine.

Got it, I figured out now where I was going wrong. I set them at 0.06mm the new feeler has  the right markings on it .003= 0.08mm .004= 0.10mm. that's why I couldnt feel much movment in them,,k

T Mack 1 - FSO wrote on 09/19/08 at 05:23:35:


When the jam nut is loosened off, the slop in the threads of the adjuster is obvious( on mine, its nasty)so setting the jam lifts the adjuster up, into the threads, & without a screwdriver holding the adjuster, I think it gets a bit tight, BUT, I am gonna give that a try. If I can save some hassles, I will.