Changed oil and filter, adj. clutch, rear brake, windshield as I sat on bike. suzuki oil and filter back in. Ck. belt,added air to tires, and he looked at the rest items on the maintenance chart as  I was looking at the owners manual and he told me what a good looking bike I had. I asked him about the valve clearance he said did not need to do anything to it. 45min. later I was on my way, 2 days later filled up and got 67mpg. love this bike and my dealer.

I'd be curious to know how he knew he didn't have to do anything to the valve adjustment. The only way to know that is to check it. Seems to me Suzuki calls for a valve adjustment and retorquing the head bolts at 600 miles. I'd think that would be about two hours of shop time. The valves are supposed to be adjusted with the engine cold. That usually means bringing the bike to them and leaving it overnight, unless you truck it to them. As long as they signed off on the 600 mile check so your warranty is intact, I guess you may be OK. But they didn't do a complete job.

I'm always a little suspicious of someone who knows something without having checked it. That's as bad as the shops that know it'll need an adjustment ($$$) without checking it. I checked mine at 600mi, and at 2700mi. Checked. No adjustment needed. Still in spec.

Do you guys think I need to have the 600 mile service done or should I just do an oil change on my own???  Seems like this is all they do.

I second Sandy's comment. Is an easy DIY for a person with moderate wrenching skills. Just did my 600 a few weeks ago and it's running great.

You'll need a Clymers, torque wrench, feeler gauges, and ideally a set of deep offset metric wrenches, a philips and regular slotted screwdriver.  You can buy all those things and still have lots of money in your pocket for goodies with the savings. Also, you'll know it was done right.  if you have any questions, someone on here can help you thru it. The valve adjustment is documented on the tech section and worked great for me. along with the Clymers.

Oil change for $20??? Man, did I get the shaft. This is my first bike. I took it in for the 700 to the dealer. All that for around $250. At 3500, took it to the local bike shop and he charged $75 for the oil change. I decided to do my own from now on. Just have to figure out how to dispose of the oil. I stopped at the dealers to get some oil as I had to top off after my recent New Hampshire run, and three quarts was $27. I told him about getting charge $75 for the oil change and he told me that was about right.
I used to take care of my cars doing everything from oil changes, to shocks, water pump, gas tanks, etc. That was until we went to fuel injected computer driven cars. I hope those skills are transferable. I need to find a good torgue wrench though.

 A motorcycle mechanic can tell by the sound of the engine if the valves need adjusting why tear something apart if its ok

"if it ain't broken why mess with it."

There is a difference between messing with something and doing regular preventative and predictive maintenance. Fix something before it "breaks." The other kind is reactive maintenance "if it aint broke, don't fix it." Personally I like to ride, so I'm willing to spend a few minutes up front to have a well running - not likely to leave me stranded - etc. etc. machine. After a certain number of miles, a new engine is likely going to need some tweaks to be within specs. As to whether something that isn't broke ( broke as in a mechanical out of tolerance that is causing enough of either noise or maloperation so it can be detected by a mechanic's hearing) should be "fixed,"  I guess an argument could be made that valves (and other things) slightly out of adjustment won't cause damage, however, things like torques need to be checked because if they are holding something important (heads, brakes, axles, engines, all come to mind) if they "break" the consequences can be spectacular and expensive.