It would appear your clutch safety switch is disabled.  I can't be certain, but can't see your neutral light shining either.  Could one of those be wreaking havoc when the engine hits a certain RPM?  I'm guessing now.  Never fooled with those yet.

It dies like mine does when I put the kickstand down and I'm still in gear, is why I ask.

Hmmm...  It definitely acted like mine during an electrical shutdown, instead of running out of gas.  No cough, just instant nogo.  Although, the one time, when you eased on the throttle, it wanted to die but kept running when you stopped adding.  That makes me think it is RPM related, which takes me out of the running among competitors for who will figure it out.  I'm electrically challenged.

I recall someone awhile back having trouble with his stereo shutting off at a very particular RPM.  I can't remember who it was or whether he found a solution, but perhaps someone else will know.

Sorry, but for the moment I'm at a loss.  Gotta call in the Guys Who Know Stuff on this one.

What exactly does the coil wire cap dealie do? how do they interfere with the bike being able to accellerate?

When the engine is idling, cylinder pressures are at about the lowest they will ever be. That makes it easier for the spark to jump the plug gap. As the throttle is opened the cylinder pressures rise, and it becomes more difficult for the spark to jump the plug gap. In turn, that means the spark voltage rises. If there is a weak spot in the insulation of the plug wire, such as a chafed spot, the spark may find it easier to jump that spot instead of the plug gap. If the plug is incorrectly gapped (too wide) the spark might not make it across under high-pressures. I'd start by changing the plug, as being an easy troubleshooting job (besides, after going through the work to get at it, you are better off changing it than fooling with trying it again). While all the parts are off you have good access to look over all the other wiring. If it will idle, the valves and the other mechanicals can't be far wrong, and it is exceedingly unlikely the same problem exists with both carburetors.

Since you pretty much ruled out fuel,  the probelm can be weak spark OR low compression.  

As Charon said, idle is easy to make spark and also WOT, but mid range is the area were pressures and fuel mixture factors make harder to get enough spark.

I suggest you do a compression check first.  Not sure if you can rent a tester, I usually borrow on from my friends.   (taking a six pack of beer along .... that works wonders when trying to borrow stuff).   Remember that the decompression solenoid need to be disabled.

As for weak spark,  
- first check the battery.  It needs to be over 12 votls.  Actually I think over something like 12.1 or 12.5  but can't remember.    Here's a tip.   When I troubleshoot a bike,  I dig out my boat's trolling motor battery.   It's the same voltage (12V -14V) so it would hurt anything but has tons more resreve so you can fiddle around more before it goes dead.  Once the bike is running then put the MC battery back in.
- second,  check the wiring connectors for dirt or corrosion.  Clean as needed.
- thrid, that hard plastic cap thing (sparkplug boot) contains a resistor to help control radio interference.   It can go bad from heat (and we all know that the LS650 never makes any heat  .... NOT).   There is a resistance measurement listed in the manual.  If it measures bad replace it.

Okay so all that compression test talk might be a little over my head and I have no idea where to get a hold of a compression tester. If i can get a hold of one I will give that a try.


If the slide youre talking about is the giant black thing that goes down the middle of the carb from the top then no, i didnt take that apart. i just set that aside and then put it back in when everything else was shiney clean.

PM received and repied