LANCER
Serious Thumper Alliance Member
Offline
Savage Beast Performance Parts
Posts: 10675
Oklahoma
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Initial impression ... you have several things going on, all old age related.
Gas in vac line: usually caused by petc0ck, especially on older bikes. Valve starts breaking down and allowing fuel to run down vac line which fills up float bowl and spills fuel all over. Putting the petc0ck in the "prime" position will bypass that temporarily until it can be fixed.
Crusty carb: OOOOH, very nasty stuff. Anytime you open a carb and find crusty crud, there is only one thing to do and that is to take the whole thing apart...every bolt, screw, washer, jet, spring, gasket, o-ring ... everything, and compare it to an exploded parts diagram to make sure you infact do have every single part that is supposed to be there. Parts may be missing or modified (ie butchered) by previous owner/helpers. Clean everything and be sure that ALL PASSAGEWAYS are totally clear and free flowing. Replace all jets, bowl gasket, 0-rings and little spring that hold the adjusting screw in.
Also, with an old bike you never know what someone may have done to the carb in the past. Some folks think they can hammer and drill most anything and with a carb that is obviously NOT the way to treat a sensitive instrument.
The assorted tuning problems you mentioned can all be traced back to worn/broken/missing parts and clogged passageways. There is no easy way around an old carb ... IT NEEDS TO BE TOTALLY REBUILT FROM SCRATCH.
Replacing the basic jets (pilot, main, air), bowl gasket, and o-ring w/ spring for adj screw and idle screw is cost effictive. The needle is not too much either, but the needle jet may be a bit much and the slide w/ rubber diaphram is costly. If that needs replacing then the total cost of the rebuild begins to approach the crossover point of getting a new aftermarket carb replacement. Of course there is always ebay, where good deals can be found on late model carbs ... look for low milage parts just a few years old.
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