Charon
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In automotive use the ammeter usually goes in series with everything EXCEPT THE STARTER. It might be a trick to find a place to do that. Starters usually pull enough current to damage the ammeter, though that might not be true on a motorcycle.
Start by making sure the battery is fully charged. Be careful if you are using a "smart" charger, as it might see a dead battery as a defective battery and refuse to charge. Get a charger rated at two amps, and charge the battery overnight. Visual check: A two-amp charge into a fully charged battery should result in at least a few bubbles coming up through the acid. This only works in a standard battery, where you can see the acid. If you put a meter on the battery at the end of charge, you should see about 14.4 to 15 volts, depending on the charger. (Edit to add: A "smart" charger, such as a Battery Tender, may have gone into float charge mode, and show about 13.6 or so.) Then let it sit for half an hour, and measure the voltage with a digital meter. You want to see about 12.6 volts. As an alternate, put it in the bike and see if it will light the headlight. If it won't it's probably shot.
Having charged the battery and put in in the bike, start the bike and watch that digital meter. It ought to drop a little during the start, then come back up. At idle the meter may show a little below, or a little above, the 12.6 volts. When you rev the engine (it doesn't have to scream) the voltage should start to rise, and after a few minutes should settle about 14 volts. You will see published numbers anywhere from about 13.8 to 15 volts. If you get from 14 to 14.4 you are probably OK. Under 13.6, little or no charge. Over 15, overcharge. The voltage regulator has to bring the system voltage up over the battery voltage in order to force current back into the battery, thus charging it.
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