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Overheating (Read 521 times)
Jimworx
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Overheating
05/28/08 at 06:56:27
 
I was sitting in traffic and I realized how hot the bike gets. I was just wondering...how do I know if my bike is overheating? Does it feel different or does it just seize?
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KwakNut
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Re: Overheating
Reply #1 - 05/28/08 at 07:21:04
 
Jimworx wrote on 05/28/08 at 06:56:27:
I was sitting in traffic and I realized how hot the bike gets. I was just wondering...how do I know if my bike is overheating? Does it feel different or does it just seize?
First thing you'd be likely to notice is running unevenly at low revs, that the idle will become weaker, and she may tend to stall when you come out of gear or as you pull away.  You may get a bit more smell than usual too as oil is fried in hot spots.  

Bad seizures are more likely when you're cruising under power and don't realise until it gets really hot - might notice a bit of power loss going up a hill then out of nowehere it can lock up. That's more likely to happen due to low oil or component failure than plain overheating.

Mostly, overheating on an air cooled bike will happen when you're stuck in traffic and you can avoid catastrophe by stopping to let the bike cool when it starts running differently - might become uneven, lose idle or sound noisier.  All signs to shut down or get onto a road where you can cruise fast enough for the wind to get to your engine.

If that does happen, let it cool naturally or waft air onto it, application of liquid to speed the cooling (whether clear or yellow) is not good when the motor is roasting as it will cause uneven cooling which can distort/crack metal or disturb gasket seals.
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vtail
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Re: Overheating
Reply #2 - 05/28/08 at 12:29:24
 
At idle your engine develops very little power so creates relative little heat and even on high temp days does not get that hot. It might feel hot when standing still, cause heat rises. Also, synthetic oil can stand extreme temps much better. It's usually us that get overheated and cranky when sitting in high temps with riding gear and helmet.I've idled recep aircraft engines for long periods while waiting for take-off clearance. There is little air flowing over these cowled (enclosed) engines yet the temp rarely gets above 300-325 degree which is measured at the sparkplug hole. When accelerating at 100% the temps then quikly rise to 400-450 if properly managed. So i don't sweat it too much when idling. Wink
Cause you can always install a cylinder head temp gauge (about $75) like ithe ones used on light-sport airplanes.
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bill67
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Re: Overheating
Reply #3 - 05/28/08 at 12:37:18
 
   I knew a guy years ago with a 400 kaw that left his bike idling at 40 degrees in the spring,went in the house and forgot about it after about and hour he went out and the pipes and mufflers where burnt so bad he had to the place the whole system.
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Re: Overheating
Reply #4 - 05/28/08 at 12:44:27
 
bill67 wrote on 05/28/08 at 12:37:18:
   I knew a guy years ago with a 400 kaw that left his bike idling at 40 degrees in the spring,went in the house and forgot about it after about and hour he went out and the pipes and mufflers where burnt so bad he had to the place the whole system.

If I'm gonna sit still in taffic for that long i shut're down. saves gas
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Re: Overheating
Reply #5 - 05/28/08 at 13:25:03
 
if im waitin that long i'll pull onto the shoulder and take a nap
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Re: Overheating
Reply #6 - 05/28/08 at 14:16:03
 
I had a cyl head temp gage a long time ago.
After chugging up grapevine, it got as hot as I've ever seen it.
Tried 2 ways to cool it down, shut her down and let it coast.  And the other was to let it roll up some speed with the engine running high rpm's.  
Running cooled it faster.  Yeah it has forced air cooling, but the heads aren't completely in that breeze.
So what I want to know, was it cooling faster cause of the high rpms with the throttle at idle?
And could pulling out the choke on a hot day help?
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Re: Overheating
Reply #7 - 05/28/08 at 14:26:02
 
I get rough a rough idle with stalling when sitting in traffic on a hot day. It takes about 20 minutes for it to get bad enough so I either need to shut it down to cool off or ride it for two or three miles to get some air across the engine. I'm hopin that going up one size with the air idle jet will help. I've also noticed the same problem after riding on the superslab and then getting stuck in traffic as soon as I exit. Think that is because the engine doesn't cool off fast enough from the higher revs on I-95. It's an air cooled engine and needs air flowing around it to keep it's cool.
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Re: Overheating
Reply #8 - 05/28/08 at 14:27:51
 
   In my Nissan manual it says if your pulling a trailer when you stop you should let it idle in neutral for a minute before turning off motor to let it cool down some.
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Re: Overheating
Reply #9 - 05/28/08 at 15:09:34
 
verslagen1 wrote on 05/28/08 at 14:16:03:
Running cooled it faster.  Yeah it has forced air cooling, but the heads aren't completely in that breeze.
So what I want to know, was it cooling faster cause of the high rpms with the throttle at idle?
And could pulling out the choke on a hot day help?

Never ever pull the choke when hot. It'll overriches, could stall and  washes down the cylinder which in turn can remove the oil from the rings which increases friction= more heat (Could damage cylinderwall). Idling for a minute lets it cool down evenly. Heat rises and the surrounding cooler air gets drawn onto the cylinder. Smiley Rolling of the throttle cools it nice cause you draw in lots of cool air and yes every other stroke we have combustion but not much of one Wink
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barry68v10
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Re: Overheating
Reply #10 - 05/29/08 at 17:33:00
 
bill67 wrote on 05/28/08 at 14:27:51:
   In my Nissan manual it says if your pulling a trailer when you stop you should let it idle in neutral for a minute before turning off motor to let it cool down some.


Bill, big difference here is you want the water pump in your Nissan to continue to pump coolant while the fan cools it.  Air cooled engines don't work like that.  If you have no air flow, you're better off shutting down with any air cooled bike assuming no forced air.
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Plano Rider
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Re: Overheating
Reply #11 - 09/18/08 at 16:13:09
 
My exhaust is smoking where it connects to the engine after only idiling for about 2-3 minutes in the drive way...is that normal?
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Re: Overheating
Reply #12 - 11/27/08 at 19:59:02
 
Plano Rider wrote on 09/18/08 at 16:13:09:
My exhaust is smoking where it connects to the engine after only idiling for about 2-3 minutes in the drive way...is that normal?


Hi Plano,

Check the area for an oil leak.  Oil may be dripping on to the header and causing the smoke.

IHTH!
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gazoo07
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Re: Overheating
Reply #13 - 11/28/08 at 19:21:55
 
What many people dont realize is oil is a major factor in cooling an air cooled engine. It carries heat from internal parts of the engine to the cylinder walls where it can be dissipated into the air through the cooling fins. Mineral oil does a poor job of carrieing heat. synthetics are made in a lab and do a much better job of cooling the engine than mineral oils. I have been stuck on speedway blvd in Daytona Bike Week.(Anyone from Florida who has ever been to bike week knows how bad that can be) I have never had a problem even though people around me were pushing their bikes off the road because they had shut down from the heat. I have always used amsoil synthetics and have never had a problem. Gazoo www.lubedealer.com/1lube  
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Re: Overheating
Reply #14 - 12/01/08 at 07:27:56
 
I am afraid I must disagree. The heat is generated in the combustion chamber, not in the "internal parts of the engine." The only heat generated in the "internal parts of the engine" is that caused by friction in the moving parts, and that is a pretty low percentage of the total.

The heat is generated in the combustion chamber by burning fuel and air. The engine converts about 25% of that heat to useable work and wastes the rest. About half of the waste heat leaves the engine in the form of hot exhaust gas. The other half of the waste heat leaves via the cooling system. The heat is directly imparted to the piston, cylinder head, and cylinder walls. The heat imparted to the head and cylinder is conducted through the metal to whatever is used as a coolant, either air or water. The heat imparted to the piston is usually conducted to the cylinder walls, somtimes via the rings. Some, but not all, four-stroke engines spray oil onto the bottom of the piston crown, and that oil is used to carry away excess heat. The side effect is that the oil scraper rings have more work to do getting the excess oil off the cylinder walls. Unless specifically designed to be oil-cooled (early Suzuki GSX-R), oil carries away only about 1 to 5% of the engine heat. The oil does cool engine bearings, as well as lubricating them.

Lest anyone believe I am "picking nits," I submit for consideration the lowly two-stroke engine, widely used in such things as outboards, chain saws, and so on. Those engines do not have engine oil, except for the quite small amount that passes through them with the fuel. Therefore, they cannot depend on oil as a coolant.

I will pass on the comment about synthetic versus mineral oils, as neither is very good as a coolant. The synthetic oils are reputed to withstand high temperatures better, but that doesn't make them better as coolants.
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