I'm new to the savage so I cant help much but if you think its lean you can richen it up. Theres either a screw or brass plug on the upper right corner of the carb viewed from the bikes right side. If theres the plug just pry it off to get to the screw. clockwise is lean, counterclockwise is rich.

Since no one else has said it yet:  Try running it in prime.  That's what narrowed down the cause of my similar problem.

I know it wouldn't be good, but not sure what the symptoms would be if a critter crawled in your muffler and either died or made a nest.  That might sound stupid, but if you knew me better you wouldn't be so disappointed.

I would think it could contribute to the hot pipes and maybe the miss as well.   Be patient, and the answer will come.  This place is full of Savage geniuses.

Maybe a broken plug wire?  I've had them carry a weak spark, but not enough to run the engine properly when you wind it up.  I have never lived where salt air was an issue, so I don't know what the possibilities are there.  If it was stored with little or no gas in the tank, salt crystals on the petcock screen, maybe?

If air filter isn't block then fuel starvation has to be a hot favourite.

Have you removed the petcock?

Fuel from inside tank has to pass through the mesh filter to get to the carb and if bike has stood with fuel in tank and not cleaned out for some time it could just be a case of restricted flow and cleaning it and draining any crud from the bottom of the fuel tank may fix.

Recheck the float level using the correct method.  This is critical for the engine to run properly.

If it runs fine below 2000 rpm and idles ok etc then it is almost certainly the CDI ignition box.

To prove this you need to check the timing with engine running.

I have had same problem, after checking carb settings, spark etc I checked the timing.

Between 2,000 and 4,000 rpm your ignition timing should gradually move from 5 degress BTDC (before top dead centre), to 30 degrees BTDC.
This is controlled in electronic ignitions by an ignition timing chip inside the CDI igniter box, (under left side panel).

To check timing you need to use a strobe light and aim it throught the timing hole, (screwed plug with big slot in it on the alternator cover).

Do it quick as a mist of oil sprays out of the hole while the engines running!

When I did it the timing mark stayed in the same place when engine revved. The timing mark should move anti-clockwise as revs increase.

If the ignition doesn't advance then the fuel doesn't get burned at the correct time due to the piston moving faster. The result is the piston is on it's way back up and the exhaust valves are starting to open while fuel is still burning. result is loss of power and popping in the exhaust.

The ignitor unit can be tested but it very hard to prove it is broke without suzuki special equipment.

As long as the ignition isn't advancing, the wires to the plug are good and the engine runs smooth at lower rev's it can't be anything but the igniter box.


It takes 2 mins to change but costs a lot to buy a new one!
A second hand one is likely to be dodgy and could fail any time so I think it is worth the cost of a new one.

As they are expensive if your not confident, or can't check timing yourself, it's probably worth taking bike to a dealer and paying a small labour charge to make sure as then you won't pay for an ignitor if it's something else.
I'd bet money that it is the ignitor though! It was in my case.

I would also bet it was off the road because of this problem in the first place and is the reason why the previous owner got rid.