Didn't realize that you are relatively close by in Woonsocket.  Since I'm just west of Worcester maybee this is a W thing, or a route 146 thing.  Best of luck..I've never taken an engine apart so I can't answer your questions..do you remember what the URL is for the online service manuels?

Sorry to read it - was sure hope'n you'd come out of this better - really like to know how that bolt was put in there - I'll bet it was about half strip'd kept got lose one too many times and it got a dose of locktite

for sure since your pulling the head and case cover - new head plug, chain, and tensioner

Reelthing wrote on 05/21/08 at 15:40:26:


It's been tough to find time to work on this and I've run into some difficulties with the frame mounting bolts and that dang timing inspection plug, but I'm finally down to the crankcase. I looked at the chain and tensioner and it looks like there's about 1.5cm of travel left on the slide. Is this acceptable? Do I need to go spend $150 on a new chain and tensioner assembly or is welding another inch or so onto the slide a good alternative?

Also, to get the head out, do I need to completely remove the solenoid and the carburetor? I have the Clymer's and it's telling me to strip the bike down the frame, but I'm hoping I don't have to go that far. Any shortcuts to just get the head out?

I'm guessing you got the other bolt out ok yes?

A method that has always worked fine for me is:-

Find a drill that fits snug in the threaded hole that the other bolt came of. Then drill a small pilot hole in the centre of the stud, followed by drilling with the drill that was a snug fit.

To determin depth of hole poke something thin into the hole you got a bolt out of.

Then measure the diameter of the bolt, (I think it's probably 10mm) and tap it out. You need to be skilled (or carefull enough to get the pilot hole well centred).

With these kinda bolts and dissimilar metals bolts can corrode in and penetrating oil may be of no use whatsoever, screw extractors can be a risky option as if you snap the extrator it is to hard to drill into.

If it goes wrong on you you can always fit (or get someone who can do it to fit a helicoil insert).

Thanks for the suggestions, Steve.

It looks like the planets finally aligned and I got the head out of there with no more broken bolts or shredded knuckles or any of the other things that happen when computer guys use tools. My machinist friend is pretty confident that he can clean up the mess I made and fit a helicoil. While he's doing that, I'm going to clean the carb, work on the chain and tensioner, start on some other cosmetic issues and then do the head plug when I get the head back.

Success on the machining. We got the old stud out and the threads still looked good. We ran a tap down just to make sure things were clean and placed two new studs.

Now, I'll be spending the next few days getting things put back together. One question I had was about gaskets. Do I absolutely need to buy a new head gasket and clutch cover gasket, or can I use the Ultra-Copper RTV for both? Are the tolerances on the head so tight that I need the exact spacing that the gasket provides? I would much prefer to use the liquid gasket rather than wait 2 weeks for replacements to come in. I searched the forum and found some conflicting information - some people say to use it but I also read a horror story about Permatex having clogged the oil path.

For my twopenny worth.

I agree with Max, because the cylinder head gasket is the one that takes all the force of the engine compression and force of the ignitions.
In a single cylinder 4 stroke engine at 5,000 rpm your igniton fires 2,500 times a minute which is 42 explosions a second!!!!!
So the head gasket needs to be good, I would never risk puttting an old head gasket back in, the damage it could do and the work it involves putting it right just isn't worth the risk.

Be patient and as my "dear Ol' Dad used to say, "take the time to do it right first time". I have found over the years that those are wise words!

Clutch cover gasket if in good condition you can get away with using again, it's just holding in oil that's splahing about under a pretty low crankcase pressure, and can be replaced easily with the engine in the frame.

We can all have bad luck but don't invite it and when your bike is running real sweet it will be worth the wait.

Here's an update. Everything's reassembled and looking good... no oil leaks, no extra parts. When I went to start it though, it just cranked and cranked. It did start once though and ran for about 15 seconds, then I killed it. I put the petcock on PRI and tried again. I couldn't start it again after that and ended up running the battery down, so I'll need to jump it when I try again.

I went back in the house, but inadvertently left the petcock on PRI. When I went back to the garage, I discovered all my gas was on the floor. It came out of one of the sealed tubes under the frame (vac line?), which has a small hole in the end (that isn't supposed to be there, right?)

So my questions are:
- since I have never had any gas leak with the petcock ON, but all the gas drained out the vac line while in PRI, does that mean my carb float was sticking or that the diaphragm is leaking?
-As for the tube with the hole in it, can I just cut off that thin rubber cover and use a Permatex'd sheet metal screw in place?
-Is my trouble starting likely due to the hole in the vac line or just to a weak battery?