Yeah, just changing the factory goo out helps. I put some 10wt in mine. Rides fine, a little smoother, nothing major. Changing it just helps the fork bushings to last longer. If it has'nt ever been changed, there'll be plenty of glitter in it, and you'll wonder where it came from.

Funny, in the maintence section of the Clymer's manual it says there's no drain screw, and you have to do all that to change the oil.  But then in the exploded diagram.. part 19.. drain screw.  The one that screws in horizontally.  I say use it.

Boule’tard wrote on 06/14/09 at 09:23:58:


I guarantee you that you can remove that bolt and the only thing you take after that is the axle.

Take out 18, that'll do the job.

yep pinch bolt

if the damper rotates on you, a skinny broom handle down the center will hold it in place.  You may have to retaper the end for it to grip the damper though.

(In response to Diamond Jim's question above):
Yeah, DJ, as you know I had some recent experience with forks and fork oil.  I don't think there is a bottom drain screw, I think that's for removing the seal.  And it's easy to remove the front wheel and fender, loosen the triple tree clamps and then unscrew the top nuts at the handlebar tree.  And when you fill the tube, fill it with the damper compressed.  Clymer's has the magic numbers of how many cc's of oil to use.........Guy