Hi Group,
I've been lurking around here as a guest, doing research on this fabulous bike, for about 2 weeks. A big thank you to the members and moderators that make this such a successful site. I belong to a couple of other forum groups for other bikes, but their participation and loyalty to their bike is no where near the level I've found here. Thanks to the wealth of information I've found here, today I took delivery of my brand new 2008 Suzuki S40! What a deal. It wasn't even out of the crate yet.

I had called the dealership regarding a used 2007 with very low miles for $3899.00. "Long gone;" the lady says, "but I'll set you up in a '08 for the same price." What's a boy to do? The going rate in my area is $4399.00. I snapped it up, and now it's sitting pretty in my garage with 22 miles on it, 21 of them put on by me! (BTW a big kudos to Yamaha/Suzuki of Texas in Hurst. From the front door to the service department, these guys treated me like I was a celebrity.)

That brings me to my question for the forum. Any recommendations, specific to this bike, for engine breakin. I've read several sites that said ride it like you stole it, to treat it with kid gloves. What works best for the S40. Thanks in advance.
Jay

Thanks justin_o_guy2. That's kinda what I figured on. Good advice about the throttle. I'll be sure to follow all of it. May wait a bit on the rejetting and Trapp though Thanks again.
Jay

A very valid point.$$$ in the tank has its own appeal. Even if you do keep the stock exhaust, a fork brace helps the handling.

"I had called the dealership regarding a used 2007 with very low miles for $3899.00. "Long gone;" the lady says, "but I'll set you up in a '08 for the same price."

Jay - You didn't buy it, you stole it. The cheapest price I can get on an '08 S40 in Eastern Ontario Canada is $5,700.00 +$600.00 Prep and PDI + 13% sales tax. = $7,199.00.

The fork brace is a must.  These forks are not "stout" at all and will twist.  The fork brace will help keep the front end stiff and make handling much better.

That being said, ride it for a few hundred miles, then invest in a fork brace.  You will be amazed at the difference.

No prob.  Mine would follow any "road snake" I came to until I put the t-kat brace on mine.  My GF even commented on the steadyness (is that even a word?) of the bike after taking a test ride on mine with the brace.

Yes enjoy, When I got mine last June I immediately put in a bigger main jet and adjusted the Idle( pulled the brass plug) Now I run with a Mac exhaust, no spacer at all, 152 main jet. My exhaust stays clean (no soot) and my header pipe looks like new (no blue-ing) at 6400 miles.  If you stay with the stock muffler at least do your bike a favor and put in a 150 main jet and adjust the idle. This most likely will keep your header without blue-ing and your bike will run better with less or no popping. Personally I also would go half spacer on the needle. Keep the shiny side up.

The average aircraft engine has about a 4" inch stroke yet only turns maximum 2700 rpm. Our "little" lunger has almost a 4" inch stroke yet will turn up to 6500 rpm so the average pistonspeed is twice as high at top rpm. Higher rpm = more FRICTION HEAT being created. If we assume that exhaust gas temperatures (EGT's) are the same in aircraft vs our motorcycle engine (about 1250 degrees), we would create much higher ring temperatures do to the higher pistonspeed which can overheat the ring, softens it, looses it's tension etc which translates into oil consumption.
So I broke mine in with SPIRITED riding but no high rpm's so internal combustion pressures were high which pushes the ring outward against the cylinder wall and I kept rpm on average between 2500 and 4000 (Oke I admit an occasionally burst up to 5000).Also I reduced EGT by  enrichening the mixture with a larger mainjet, needle spacer mod and idle screw adjustment so I have NO exhaust blue-ing which is do to high EGT's, which in turn also shortens exhaust valve life. It's heat that kills engines!
I now have 6400 miles, my pipe stays shiny and clean and oil consumption is almost nill.
Note; When the engine is cold I start it without choke if possible or turn that off asap, and then idle it at about 1500 rpm with my throttle lock till cylinder gets too warm to touch. It's Then that I'll ride off with moderate acceleration for the next mile or so. Never ride brisk with a cold motor. (Cold starts is when engines wear the most)