I did my valve inspection yesterday at 6950 miles ('06 S40). It seemed quite tight, and I could never feel any play in the rocker arms, even when they were both at the top. I couldn't get a .003 feeler in there, and some were less than .002. I adjusted them to .004, which is the middle of the range.

Today on my test ride, I heard a lot more valve clatter. I hadn't been hearing this before, and realy just did the inspection expecting that everything was within spec.

So, a few questions.

1. Do the clearances get smaller or larger as wear occurs?

2. Any idea what I did wrong? I only have normal feeler gauges (new), and not the bent type that are really designed for valve tappets. Did I just get a bad reading?

3. What are the dangers of a smaller than spec clearance?

4. What are the dangers of a larger than spec clearance?

5. Is there supposed to be some clatter that I've just been missing with too-tight clearances?

I guess after hearing from you guys I'll open it back up and start again. But I wanted to get your input. I'm not the world's most experience mechanic. I can turn a wrench, but this is my first valve adjustment.

I'm going to cross-post this on Two-Wheeled Texans.

I had the same problem and I think if you read the post from Greg you will understand top dead center much better. I ask almost the same question. Mine had less than .004 clearance. there also was no rocker arm movement. It was also my first attempt. There is slightly more noise but mine starts noticeably better and seems to run cooler, and better. My post that Greg answered was in rubber side down.

I took the blades out of the holder & cut them off & bent them in a L shape. Also, putting a little Ski tip on them really helps get them between the valve end & rocker. An offset flatblade to hold the adjuster while you tighten the set nut really takes a lot of frustration out of it.

DanGill wrote on 01/21/08 at 07:41:45:

You only had to look at the 2nd page...Setting Top Dead Center.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1200196132

By the way, do you have a manual?  You really shouldn't do anything to the engine without one, but if you set the valves at the wrong TDC position, the valves will definitely be too loose.  As Verslagy said, it takes a little practice to get them right because they are in a pretty awkward place.

Just to make sure you know, Clymer has errors.

One of them just happens to be the direction for turning the crank over to determine TDC.  You should be turning the same way that the wheels roll forward.

Happy twisting  

DanGill wrote on 01/21/08 at 13:08:04:

There are 2 places in the 4 stroke cycle where the rockers appear to be up.  One of them is more than other, ever so slightly.  There is a difference in TDC on the Compression and the Exhaust stroke.  They both occur at 3:00.  If you adjust it on the exhaust stroke you are doing it wrong....you have to be on the Compression stroke.

You might want to reread that other topic so you figure out which is which.

DanGill wrote on 01/22/08 at 05:21:32:

You mean that your clearances are correct, and this is a success story?

Bottom line?  Did you have it adjusted on the wrong TDC?  (It happens, which is how the other topic evolved)

DanGill wrote on 01/21/08 at 15:53:47:

I have an '07 and my tank is removable without taking the pettything off. I can't imagining the factory tollerances being so much different from bike to bike. I slide the tank back off the rubber grommets, undo the entrical speedo connection, undo the speedo cable at the engine and put a tiny plasic bag over that end as not to lose the little oil seal), then while sliding it back some more move the crotchside of the tank to the left (with rubber hoses disconnected). When re-installing lube rubber grommets with vaseline or silicone spray for easier slide-on