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› Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
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Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!! (Read 520 times)
Savage_Greg
Serious Thumper
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Don't go around your
ass to reach your
elbow...
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Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Reply #30 -
01/18/08 at 03:52:09
Paladin. wrote
on 01/17/08 at 20:53:20:
When you break considerable amperage you get nice toasty sparks. Eventually the switch gets coated with char and you stop making contact. A relay takes the current load off the switch and onto it's own beefier contacts.
You want something like
this.
Basically the leads that connect to the horn get relocated to the coil terminals of the relay; you then run a loop from the battery thru the make contacts of the relay, the horn, and back to the battery.
Well, since you'll have the tank off to do this anyway, it would be better to wire the + supply from the Orange wire in the harness instead of the battery. That way the horn is fused. You can ground it to the frame anywhere.
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thumperclone
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Posts: 6049
Grand Junction Colorado
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Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Reply #31 -
01/18/08 at 16:31:13
Savage_Greg wrote
on 01/17/08 at 04:54:57:
thumperclone wrote
on 01/15/08 at 21:27:50:
i got a couple also but id never mention it here
I didn't know that you were a collector. Make me an offer
not a collector just a pac rat...spring is comin goin have a garage sale!!! think i said that last year too!!!
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thumperclone
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Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Reply #32 -
01/18/08 at 16:34:16
Savage_Greg wrote
on 01/18/08 at 03:52:09:
Paladin. wrote
on 01/17/08 at 20:53:20:
When you break considerable amperage you get nice toasty sparks. Eventually the switch gets coated with char and you stop making contact. A relay takes the current load off the switch and onto it's own beefier contacts.
You want something like
this.
Basically the leads that connect to the horn get relocated to the coil terminals of the relay; you then run a loop from the battery thru the make contacts of the relay, the horn, and back to the battery.
Well, since you'll have the tank off to do this anyway, it would be better to wire the + supply from the Orange wire in the harness instead of the battery. That way the horn is fused. You can ground it to the frame anywhere.
the switch closes the ground on stock harness right?
think thats how im reading the diagram..makes sense the load(horn) absorbs some or the in rush current(beep) so the sw contacts last longer...
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thumperclone
Serious Thumper
Alliance Member
Online
PGR rider riding
with respect
Posts: 6049
Grand Junction Colorado
Gender:
Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Reply #33 -
01/18/08 at 16:36:48
Savage_Greg wrote
on 01/18/08 at 03:52:09:
Paladin. wrote
on 01/17/08 at 20:53:20:
When you break considerable amperage you get nice toasty sparks. Eventually the switch gets coated with char and you stop making contact. A relay takes the current load off the switch and onto it's own beefier contacts.
You want something like
this.
Basically the leads that connect to the horn get relocated to the coil terminals of the relay; you then run a loop from the battery thru the make contacts of the relay, the horn, and back to the battery.
Well, since you'll have the tank off to do this anyway, it would be better to wire the + supply from the Orange wire in the harness instead of the battery. That way the horn is fused. You can ground it to the frame anywhere.
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standing for those who stood for US
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Savage_Greg
Serious Thumper
Alliance Member
Offline
Don't go around your
ass to reach your
elbow...
Posts: 7844
SW Washington State
Gender:
Re: Horn Replacement - MORE PROBLEMS !!!!
Reply #34 -
01/19/08 at 07:00:35
thumperclone wrote
on 01/18/08 at 16:34:16:
Savage_Greg wrote
on 01/18/08 at 03:52:09:
Paladin. wrote
on 01/17/08 at 20:53:20:
When you break considerable amperage you get nice toasty sparks. Eventually the switch gets coated with char and you stop making contact. A relay takes the current load off the switch and onto it's own beefier contacts.
You want something like
this.
Basically the leads that connect to the horn get relocated to the coil terminals of the relay; you then run a loop from the battery thru the make contacts of the relay, the horn, and back to the battery.
Well, since you'll have the tank off to do this anyway, it would be better to wire the + supply from the Orange wire in the harness instead of the battery. That way the horn is fused. You can ground it to the frame anywhere.
the switch closes the ground on stock harness right?
think thats how im reading the diagram..makes sense the load(horn) absorbs some or the in rush current(beep) so the sw contacts last longer...
On bikes, that is usually the exception to the rule, with one wire, rather than two, going to the horn button, and then a ground through the handlebar.
Keeps the harness size down going to the controls too.
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