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Rubber Side Down!
› Reworking front brake system
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Reworking front brake system (Read 400 times)
KwakNut
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Re: Reworking front brake system
Reply #15 -
01/29/08 at 15:55:57
verslagen1 wrote
on 01/29/08 at 15:14:35:
I got mine as a close out for about the same price on ebay. just got to keep your eyes open for the good deals and hope no one else notices.
My faith in the strength of the US consumer market is restored!!
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If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking.
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NDBiker
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Re: Reworking front brake system
Reply #16 -
02/01/08 at 21:14:20
So I never thought to look at at a micro fiche on the size of the banjos. The washers are 10mm so I guess the banjos are 10mm instead of 12mm.
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My motorcycle gets better gas mileage than your hybrid.
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DavidD
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Re: Reworking front brake system
Reply #17 -
02/11/08 at 06:31:25
To update: The brake rebuild is finished (minus the new hose) and the brake seems to be working fine. A fairly inexpensive rebuild - $45 total for the master cylinder piston, caliper piston+seals, and a new banjo bolt. The only hard part was getting the clip pliers down to the master cylinder circlip. (well, bleeding wasn't a joy either, but I was expecting that). I still don't understand why an OEM banjo bolt is only $1.95, but the silly OEM crush washers were $1 each. At that price, they should taste like beer.
I did spend $18 to buy a brake bleeding kit from Harbor Fright. It worked fairly well, but not perfect. It WAS helpful in getting fluid into the line and down to the caliper pretty quick. But still had to do the final bleeding the manual way. Even so, the bleeding only took maybe 20 minutes.
So thanks to all of you for your suggestions.
Now I gotta figure out why it won't crank... :'(
Dave
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Reworking front brake system
Reply #18 -
02/11/08 at 23:00:10
DavidD wrote
on 02/11/08 at 06:31:25:
To update: The brake rebuild is finished (minus the new hose) and the brake seems to be working fine. A fairly inexpensive rebuild - $45 total for the master cylinder piston, caliper piston+seals, and a new banjo bolt. The only hard part was getting the clip pliers down to the master cylinder circlip. (well, bleeding wasn't a joy either, but I was expecting that). I still don't understand why an OEM banjo bolt is only $1.95, but the silly OEM crush washers were $1 each. At that price, they should taste like beer.
I did spend $18 to buy a brake bleeding kit from Harbor Fright. It worked fairly well, but not perfect. It WAS helpful in getting fluid into the line and down to the caliper pretty quick. But still had to do the final bleeding the manual way. Even so, the bleeding only took maybe 20 minutes.
So thanks to all of you for your suggestions.
Now I gotta figure out why it won't crank... :'(
Dave
I have 2 different "store bought" brake bleeders and both of them have shortcomings. I always end up finishing it the old fashioned way with my home-made bleeder bottle.
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KwakNut
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Re: Reworking front brake system
Reply #19 -
02/12/08 at 00:25:42
Savage_Greg wrote
on 02/11/08 at 23:00:10:
I have 2 different "store bought" brake bleeders and both of them have shortcomings. I always end up finishing it the old fashioned way with my home-made bleeder bottle.
It's always a pain isn't it? In my garage I have all sorts of brake beelding gizmos gathering dust, having tried them once and thought 'never again'. Even the pressurised methods are a pain - by the time you've sealed the master reservoir and primed them you'd have the job done old-style.
The best special tool I've come across is the Mitivac hand vacuum pump which attaches at the nipple end and sucks the fluid through pretty well, but for the bike owners out there who are considering doing the job for the first time, it's hard to beat a penny's worth of thick-walled soft rubber tube with a bung at one end and a longitudinal 1-inch slit. Pump and the slit is forced open to let fluid out, release and it re-seals perfectly without you having to close the nipple. Works as well as 90% of the special rigs you can buy off the shelf.
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If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn't thinking.
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Savage_Rob
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Re: Reworking front brake system
Reply #20 -
02/12/08 at 10:28:44
KwakNut wrote
on 02/12/08 at 00:25:42:
The best special tool I've come across is the Mitivac hand vacuum pump which attaches at the nipple end and sucks the fluid through pretty well, but for the bike owners out there who are considering doing the job for the first time, it's hard to beat a penny's worth of thick-walled soft rubber tube with a bung at one end and a longitudinal 1-inch slit. Pump and the slit is forced open to let fluid out, release and it re-seals perfectly without you having to close the nipple. Works as well as 90% of the special rigs you can buy off the shelf.
That's a great way to do it. The MityVac works like it's supposed to but I wound up pulling far too much fluid through too quickly.
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1998|MAC muffler|ceramic coated header|K&N air filter|Amal Mk2 carb|Odyssey battery|iridium plug|NC windshield|Dunlop 491s|Superbrace|EBC brake rotor|12.5" Progressive shocks|Kuryakyn ISO grips
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Reworking front brake system
Reply #21 -
02/12/08 at 12:00:55
This is my old stand-by method. Use it on my car and truck. It's universal, and I use it on clutch slave cylinders too.
Only difference is that mine has a second short piece of tubing in the cap, so that I can prime the tubing before attaching to the bleed nipple.
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