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Do I have to buy the needle and the valve??? (Read 426 times)
SavageWahine
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Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
12/14/07 at 21:11:36
 
Holy Moley!!
I guess this is what happens if I haven't logged in for a while!!
The site changes!
Guess I'm gonna have to get used to this now!
Anyway, I'm finished with my bike, put everything back together, and started her right up again. I idled the engine for 10 minutes to start the curing process for the engine paint. It ran fine.... then after 10 minutes it just died. I got to start her up again but gas started pouring out of the carburetor valve. I figured maybe something got stuck in the valve or on the needle. Now it looks like the needle has a more pronounced ring on it (worn out). Do I have to buy the set (needle and valve) or does anyone know where to buy just the needle? Can the valve actually wear out?
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Kropatchek
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Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
Reply #1 - 12/15/07 at 04:34:40
 
Check E-bay. There's a guy in New Zeeland that sells the complete unit for 15 ausie $
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
Reply #2 - 12/15/07 at 05:39:22
 
Yes, you do.  All that I've bought come as a set.  Not a big deal to change...and it's probably just as well.

BTW - sometimes, the floats and needle will get stuck if they are dry for a while and they will stay open when gas runs into the bowl.  "Sometimes" you can tap on the bowl with the handle of a screwdriver and loosen them up and stop the gas flow.

Just a thought for the next time this happens.
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SavageWahine
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Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
Reply #3 - 12/16/07 at 11:28:11
 
Savage_Greg wrote on 12/15/07 at 05:39:22:
Yes, you do.  All that I've bought come as a set.  Not a big deal to change...and it's probably just as well.

BTW - sometimes, the floats and needle will get stuck if they are dry for a while and they will stay open when gas runs into the bowl.  "Sometimes" you can tap on the bowl with the handle of a screwdriver and loosen them up and stop the gas flow.

Just a thought for the next time this happens.

As it turns out the float must indeed have gotten stuck, cause it runs fine now. I took the float bowl off, looked at the float, and noticed that one of the float thingies was almost touching the inside of the crab, so I bent it out a bit. I'm thinking maybe it must have gotten caught and couldn't move up enough to close the valve.
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SavageWahine
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Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
Reply #4 - 12/16/07 at 11:29:54
 
Kropatchek wrote on 12/15/07 at 04:34:40:
Check E-bay. There's a guy in New Zeeland that sells the complete unit for 15 ausie $

Thanks!!
I will check into that, got it working with the old set, but will need to replace it soon.
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
Reply #5 - 12/17/07 at 05:07:38
 
How is your float level now that you adjusted it?
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LANCER
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Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
Reply #6 - 12/17/07 at 07:13:18
 
SavageWahine wrote on 12/16/07 at 11:29:54:
Kropatchek wrote on 12/15/07 at 04:34:40:
Check E-bay. There's a guy in New Zeeland that sells the complete unit for 15 ausie $

Thanks!!
I will check into that, got it working with the old set, but will need to replace it soon.


I may have one in the one of the carb parts boxes, but will have check to make sure it is the correct one for the stock carb.  If  so, you can have it for the shipping and a buck or two.
Send me a PM so I don't forget to check ... I am away from home right now.
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SavageWahine
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Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
Reply #7 - 12/17/07 at 13:49:22
 
Savage_Greg wrote on 12/17/07 at 05:07:38:
How is your float level now that you adjusted it?

It seems just fine at the moment!
Runs great!
I do need to ride it to the bike shop, cause I don't think I was able to tighten the rear wheel bolt, and the engine bottom mount bolts tight enough. I took the heat shield off and those bolts are really hard to tighten.
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
Reply #8 - 12/18/07 at 07:24:10
 
SavageWahine wrote on 12/17/07 at 13:49:22:
Savage_Greg wrote on 12/17/07 at 05:07:38:
How is your float level now that you adjusted it?

It seems just fine at the moment!
Runs great!
I do need to ride it to the bike shop, cause I don't think I was able to tighten the rear wheel bolt, and the engine bottom mount bolts tight enough. I took the heat shield off and those bolts are really hard to tighten.

Takes 2 wrenches.  Don't have them, or can't reach both sides at the same time?
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SavageWahine
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Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
Reply #9 - 12/18/07 at 10:34:26
 
Savage_Greg wrote on 12/18/07 at 07:24:10:
SavageWahine wrote on 12/17/07 at 13:49:22:
Savage_Greg wrote on 12/17/07 at 05:07:38:
How is your float level now that you adjusted it?

It seems just fine at the moment!
Runs great!
I do need to ride it to the bike shop, cause I don't think I was able to tighten the rear wheel bolt, and the engine bottom mount bolts tight enough. I took the heat shield off and those bolts are really hard to tighten.

Takes 2 wrenches.  Don't have them, or can't reach both sides at the same time?

I do have 2 wrenches, I clamped one on the low side touching the ground, so It couldn't move once I started to turn the bolt on the other side. The trouble is that I end up standing on the other wrench and kind of jump on the wrench to get it to move. It still leaks a tiny bit of oil from the bolt on the left side, which I guess means that it is not tight enough yet. I'm afraid to over tighten it, so I figure I'll go to the bike shop where they have a wrench that tells them how tight is is.
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You take the blue pill the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe.
You take the red pill, you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit hole goes.
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verslagen1
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Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
Reply #10 - 12/18/07 at 11:19:32
 
If I remember right, you're 110#
If you use a 6" wrench and stand on it, the torque will be 55ftlbs.
Just about right I'd say.
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
Reply #11 - 12/18/07 at 11:26:32
 
verslagen1 wrote on 12/18/07 at 11:19:32:
If I remember right, you're 110#
If you use a 6" wrench and stand on it, the torque will be 55ftlbs.
Just about right I'd say.

The head nuts aren't that tight, but she doesn't weight enough to tighten the primary gear nut Tongue
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verslagen1
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Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
Reply #12 - 12/18/07 at 11:31:32
 
I thought she was talking about the footpeg mounting plate bolts.  You know the ones going all the way though and requiring 2 wenches.
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SavageWahine
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Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
Reply #13 - 12/18/07 at 13:37:50
 
verslagen1 wrote on 12/18/07 at 11:31:32:
I thought she was talking about the footpeg mounting plate bolts.  You know the ones going all the way though and requiring 2 wenches.

Yes I was!!
The bolt that goes all the way through, but that also holds the first heat shield in place, and the pedal. There is a little bit of oil dripping from the bolt on the other side of the bike.
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You take the blue pill the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe.
You take the red pill, you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit hole goes.
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Do I have to buy the needle and the valve???
Reply #14 - 12/19/07 at 07:51:28
 
verslagen1 wrote on 12/18/07 at 11:31:32:
I thought she was talking about the footpeg mounting plate bolts.  You know the ones going all the way though and requiring 2 wenches.

She was...I was just thinking that the "stand on the wrench" technique might might have some limitations unless she decides to bulk up Tongue
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