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Supermagnetizing your oil filter (Read 1896 times)
Oldfeller2
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Supermagnetizing your oil filter
12/09/07 at 12:17:48
 
$10 Supermagnet on the oil filter
http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;n...

contains the origin thread for this idea.  You can read there for the full story behind this idea.

=================================

First, why would you do this?

To 100% capture all the iron/steel trash that recirculates in your oil to cut down on wear and damage to gears, chains, cylinder walls,  etc.

=================================

Where to buy the magnet
http://www.supermagnetman.net/product_info.php?products_id=414

Now this is the much bigger really large strong $14.00 supermagnet that does require some reinforcement to the oil filter holding system because it is so big and heavy.




Plus, by magnetizing all the steel in the oil filter itself then all the trash comes out with the filter (attached firmly to it) when you change the filter, you just wait to pull the magnet off the face of the filter until after you are holding it over the trash can -- you then throw the filter and the iron trash away all in the same motion.

There is a lot more surface area in the filter to attach tiny iron/steel particulate trash to when you consider the front and back of the filter steel (inside and out) and all the area of the perforated center steel cylinder that runs down the middle of the oil filter.

When the entire oil filter steel all becomes strongly magnetic, nothing is going to be able to avoid it (100% iron/steel particle removal per EACH pass through the filter).  Remember, the oil gets very intimate with the center perforated cylinder holes (oil gets within an eighth of an inch to the side of one of the perforation holes and remember that steel is magnetized enough to move a large paper clip that is 4 inches away straight up vertically into the air).  

This beats a little magnetic spud no matter where you put it.
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Re: Supermagnetizing your oil filter
Reply #1 - 12/09/07 at 12:32:46
 
How would you put such a big magnet in place and reinforce the oil filter holding system so it doesn't move when you hit a bump, etc.



You get some 1/16" thick standard Permatex cork gasket material and use hi-temp red RTV gasket sealer to glue some little 1" long, 1/2" wide strips to the inside of your oil filter cover.   You use the magnet itself to snuggle the strips down into conformance with the right angle bend at the edge of the cover and to hold everything in place 'till the red stuff sets up good.

The tabs both position the magnet correctly AND give it a slight engagement force to the oil filter such that the magnet cannot move at all when the cover is bolted down.  

You still use the little spring, BTW, it helps align everything prior to the screws pulling down.  You put the magnet into the cover, put the spring over the spud (the magnet grabs it, but holds it about perpendicular)  you put the filter over the spring and stick the whole shebang into the recess at the same time.  

You double check to make sure the little "O" ring is in place on the spud inside the cover and then fiddle things back & forth a bit until the cover will seat correctly.   Add screws, tighten until first engagement is felt.   The big "O" ring on the outer edge of the cover and the four gasket tabs get mildly compressed as you gently and evenly engage the screws that last vital 1/16" of an inch.

Something the picture doesn't show that I did modify was to trim the inside corners off the gasket tabs where they get close to each other near the center boss on the cover.  I did this to allow ample bypass oil flow which has to go between the cork strips.  I cut off the corners such that about a quarter of each corner is now making a "flat tipped arrow" pointing at the center boss.  This permits full bypass oil flow in case I should ever need it.
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Re: Supermagnetizing your oil filter
Reply #2 - 12/09/07 at 12:57:26
 
Now, how strong is this magnet again?  

(hint -- they don't call it a supermagnet for nothing)





Yes, the magnet is strong enough to hold up a major open end wrench all by its lonesome right through the aluminum cover.  It magnetizes the stamped steel plates and the perforated steel inner cylinder of the oil filter to the same sort of degree.

The opposite side of the oil filter from the installed magnet is magnetized enough to cause a heavy paper clip to jump up four inches vertically up into the air -- I think the attractive forces put on any steel particles in the oil flow may be equally severe.

This picture was taken after an oil change and three months of use, so the supermagnet does not lose appreciable amounts of strength due to the relatively low actual temperatures our oil gets up to during the summer months in the south.  

Oil would have to get over 500 degrees F to begin to degrade the supermagnet permanently, temps less than that can only cause temporary weakening of the field which recovers as soon as the magnet cools down.  
Temporary weakening starts on a sliding scale at 178 degrees F and gets significant if over 350 degrees, but recovers on the same sliding scale as the temp comes back down.   Our oil temps are around 150 F "normally" with spikes going up to about 200 max on a hot summer day.
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Re: Supermagnetizing your oil filter
Reply #3 - 12/09/07 at 13:14:39
 
I left the magnet and the oil filter in place for a full riding year, during which time my oil got dirty and got changed 5 times.  My purpose was to see if there was any adverse amount of build up of iron/steel particles around the small punched holes on the inside sheet metal cylinder of the oil filter.

What I found when I took the filter down was interesting, the paper filter element looked pretty much new with no noticeable bits of debris on the paper pleats.  A year was OK for the paper part of the filter ......



But lookie at all them iron and steel bits following the magnetic field lines radiating out from the corners and flanges of the steel parts of the oil filter itself.   Reminds me of one of those little cheapie iron filing "Put a Beard on the Pirate" magnetic toys I used to play with in the car on long trips back when I was a kid.  

You may need to copy the pics over to your desktop and expand them to clearly see the magnetic iron filings still sticking out into the air, trapped by the strong magnetic field.  Not only are they still there, they are still sticking straight out like stalagmites.



Notice the four (4) bare places where the cork tabs were compressed by tightening down the cover (bare spots with no iron/steel paste on the outside of the magnet).   Also note the large amount of iron/steel paste accumulated on the edges and surface of the supermagnet itself.
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Re: Supermagnetizing your oil filter
Reply #4 - 12/09/07 at 13:32:08
 
Now to the main question -- Did the little punched oil passages down inside the center steel cylinder see any adverse build up that could cause the filter to plug up and quit working?

(you need to copy this picture to your desktop and blow it up with your favorite picture editor)



I eyeballed the little inside cylinder holes with a magnifying glass and then rubbed them with a Qtip to see what came off.  The size of the stuff is powder super-fine but there is a spray of it both in the hole and coming out of the hole down the inner side of the perforated cylinder. There is a similar super thin coat of fine particles on the outside of the steel slug housing that holds the spring for the bypass valve.  All of these areas are "post filter" particles that would have gone on to cause wear on ball bearing balls, bearing races, cam bearing surfaces, rollers etc.

I don't think the oil flow was reduced any by these tiny thin fine accumulation amounts, but the super fine particles that were able to get through the paper filter were still being trapped magnetically while going through the holes -- making the same sort of fine magnetic force line spray pattern as everywhere else, but infinitely small in nature.

Vtail keeps wishing for magnetic particle removal of both the large pre-filtration particles and a finer removal of the much smaller particles that CAN make it through the filter paper -- I think he finally gets what he's been asking for with this large magnet method.
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« Last Edit: 12/31/07 at 07:16:12 by Oldfeller2 »  
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Re: Supermagnetizing your oil filter
Reply #5 - 12/09/07 at 13:46:37
 
Cleaning off the supermagnet was difficult -- the greasy fine metal particles couldn't be rinsed off with solvent or hot water and soap (magnetic bonds were too strong).  

I wound up trashing one of my wife's ugly bathroom face cloths to polish the stuff off by actively embedding it into the fabric.

There was a lot of the black fine stuff.   There was a lot more of it still enclosed by the steel of the oil filter when I threw it away too, but it just went into the can with the used filter.

In conclusion, for $14, I think the supermagnet on the oil filter idea works a whole lot better than the $17 magnetic oil plug trick.  

When you go to get your $14 supermagnet, spring for a few of these little bitty rectangular magnets for 80 cents each to use as sensor pickups for a Sigma Sports or Vapor speedometer.  These are strong enough to put on the top face of your front rim and still send a signal all the way over to the sensor mounted on the fender support bracket (makes Sigmas and Vapors much easier to mount as the strong signal bridges the larger air gap).  The little magnets can ride for free on the same shipping charge as the big magnet.

Buy the little magnets here
http://www.supermagnetman.net/product_info.php?products_id=346



If you do a Sigma Sport speedo unit, use the mile marker setting trick as explained below (much easier to do).  

If you take a trip on an interstate just stop at a mile marker and restart your computer as per this guy's directions and write down all the info you get when you stop at a goodly distant mile marker.  Mile markers are not dead nuts accurate as individuals, but when you are averaging say 40 to 100 of them you get a very very accurate setting for your speedo computer.  

Here is the instructions and calculator that makes all this math and mm-to-mph translation dirt easy.

http://www.geocities.com/toms_toys/bc80c.html
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Re: Supermagnetizing your oil filter
Reply #6 - 12/09/07 at 17:43:52
 
You can feel it if you pass the toe of your steel toed work shoes past it on purpose.   Other than that, no issues.

It has grabbed the allen wrench a time or two when I went to turn the screws causing me to miss the hole though.  You get used to it being there after a miss or two.

================================

Now this one is a real wrench snatcher, I rarely change the oil without having to wrassle it for the wrench (it slides it across the concrete if I get it within 6 inches of it).



The topic for this thread is  http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=cafe;action=display;num=1177446...

(Note on 1-4-2008 -- this entire thread disappeared from the Cafe due to old age, yeah, even our topics can get so old they get senile and get sent to the old folks home in the sky ..... Roll Eyes)
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« Last Edit: 01/11/08 at 14:56:02 by Oldfeller2 »  
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Re: Supermagnetizing your oil filter
Reply #7 - 12/10/07 at 14:23:37
 
To clean the magnet, wash grease off first.  Then get Duct tape (you can use the cheap grade stuff) .   Take a small piece  (2-3) inches and and start patting the magnet down with the sticky side.  When the tape gets full of particles, get a new piece.

It keeps the wife happy as she doesn't loose too many towels.
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Re: Supermagnetizing your oil filter
Reply #8 - 12/12/07 at 10:40:51
 
this is given in the specs Max Operating Temp: 80C

as you are going to go over this by 20c in the summer - what is the effect of running above the spec?
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Re: Supermagnetizing your oil filter
Reply #9 - 12/12/07 at 14:49:21
 
To kill a neodymium magnet you have to go up over 392 degrees F according to a US manufacturer's web specs and a University magnet expert (see below).  

http://www.magnetweb.com/Sect3A.htm
reference source

If you saw 80C on the Magnetman's web page you need to email him and ask him exactly what he means by that as that is the just the start of the reversible temperature range (176 degrees F) where temporary (100% reversible when it cools back down) field density change starts to take place.

Temporary and Starts are the operant words here. Our bikes have oil temperatures going up to that range during the summer which means the magnetic field might weaken a bit temporarily when they get up to full oil temp on a hot day.  That's all.    

Some plastic based magnets might die (hit their Curie irreversible transformation point) at that low a temperature, but not a neodymium rare earth magnet.

Go figure ....  worst he can say is that is the range were temporary slight field strength temperature degradation can start to occur for simple N grade neodymium magnet materials.  

I went out and did the big wrench check just now, magnet still holds it up just fine.   Bike is still hot from being ridden, so our oil and case temperature ranges apparently don't degrade the field strength very much.

================================

 Thermal Characteristics

Material  (Br)             Reversible               Curie
       
N              -0.12         80ºC (176ºF)         310ºC (590ºF)  

NM             -0.12       100ºC (212ºF)       340ºC (644ºF)      

NH             -0.11        120ºC (248ºF)       340ºC (644ºF)      

NSH            -0.10       150ºC (302ºF)       340ºC (644ºF)      

NUH            -0.10       180ºC (356ºF)       350ºC (662ºF)  

NEH            -0.10       200ºC (392ºF)       350ºC (662ºF)


Interpret chart as follows:

Reversible Temp = temperature where field strength begins to drop temporarily as temperature goes up.

Curie Temp = temperature where irreversible changes to a magnet's field strength actually do take place.

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« Last Edit: 12/13/07 at 13:49:59 by Oldfeller--FSO »  

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Re: Supermagnetizing your oil filter
Reply #10 - 12/28/07 at 17:28:35
 
Allways got one problem with this method. You see, this build up on the outside of the filter is from oil that has not been filtered yet (return oil) and the magnet does the job of removing metal particles before the filter gets a chance, IOW the filter is filtering oil minus metallic particles. A better job would be if you could tap and place a magnet in the filtered oil, like oil thats going to your cambearings etc. You might find out that there's almost none that way. In aircrafts we open up the filter with a special cutter and check for metallic debris Wink
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Re: Supermagnetizing your oil filter
Reply #11 - 12/30/07 at 04:13:32
 
vtail wrote on 12/28/07 at 17:28:35:
Allways got one problem with this method. You see, this build up on the outside of the filter is from oil that has not been filtered yet (return oil) and the magnet does the job of removing metal particles before the filter gets a chance, IOW the filter is filtering oil minus metallic particles. A better job would be if you could tap and place a magnet in the filtered oil, like oil thats going to your cambearings etc. You might find out that there's almost none that way. In aircrafts we open up the filter with a special cutter and check for metallic debris Wink


But the filter itself should last longer and be more efficient with less metallic particles in it, right?

Also, don't the particles on the INSIDE of the filter give you an indication of what would be in your filtered oil stream?

Methinks Oldtimer's method should improve engine/transmission life in the thumper....or any other internal combustion engine.   Wink
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Re: Supermagnetizing your oil filter
Reply #12 - 12/31/07 at 06:23:09
 
Vtail, please remember the inner core (perforated steel cylinder) on the inside of the filtration element gets stongly magnetized too.   It does pick up the fine fine fine metal dust that makes it through the filter paper as all the oil goes through the little holes in the inner perforated cylinder getting within 1/8" of a strongly magnetized surface.

So, yes you do get what you were asking for, both pre and post filter metal removal and you do get it 100% on all the oil going through the engine.  And yes, it should help somewhat with engine life as all that stuff isn't causing extra wear to various ball bearing balls and rollers and such.

Payback analysis   ===================

I went for a year on one oil filter, not that it is recommended mind you, but let's say conservatively you just cut your filter use in half by pre-screening and post-screening all the steel and iron particles out of the oil using the magnet.

You pay from $3 to $5 a filter depending on where you pick them up.  The magnet cost $14 so as soon as you would avoid paying for four filters you will have paid yourself back for buying the magnet.

All the wear / downtime you avoid by stopping all the metal particles from recirculating in the oil is all "plus dollars saved", but this would be very difficult to document or calculate in advance.

Oldfeller
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« Last Edit: 01/06/08 at 11:05:48 by Oldfeller--FSO »  

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Re: Supermagnetizing your oil filter
Reply #13 - 03/16/08 at 04:41:40
 
Folks have been trying this trick using stock Suzuki oil filters and have discovered that the stock Suzuki filter is longer than the EMCO aftermarket oil filter that the trick was developed with.

They can still put in the magnet, but do not have room for the strips of gasket material.  Some have reported post installation oil leaks when using a stock Suzuki filter even without the strips (no room?).

So, unless you are planning to use EMCO aftermarket oil filters you may consider not performing this mod.

Why?  Because those strips of gasket material provide ROOM FOR BY-PASS OIL FLOW past the magnet around the front of the oil filter and through the bypass valve.  Not planning to have bypass oil flow (in case you need it) isn't a good idea.

So, this mod only works with EMCO aftermarket oil filters.  Plan on getting some from JC Whitney or BikeBandit (they are a lot less expensive than Suzuki filters --$2.99 each -- so you can get a half-dozen while you are at it).

EMCO aftermarket oil filters apparently are what makes the room that makes this mod work right.

Oldfeller
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Re: Supermagnetizing your oil filter
Reply #14 - 03/19/08 at 07:54:51
 
Looking at the supplied photographs, it appears that the filter media never had a chance to do its job, due to the magnetic field.

The oil pump pushes the unfilterd oil through the gallery passeges around the outside of the oil filter (through the perforated holes on the spin-on type filters).  The oil is then drawn through the filter media under pressure through the central hole, then pumped to the engine.

Standard paper element oil filters have an average single pass efficiency of 97% for 30 micron particles. 20 micron particles are between 82-85% efficiency.  A human hair is 70-90 microns thick. That means a standard paper element oil filter can remove particles 1/2 to 1/3 the thickness of a human hair.

By adding the magnetic field to the oil filter itself, ferrous particles were attracted to the filter housing, instead of being filtered from the oil by the media. Most of what was trapped by the field would have been trapped by the oil filter, but some smaller particles would have passed through.

A K&N high efficiency oil filter has a single pass filtration efficiency of 99.7% for 30 micron particles, 95.6% efficiency for 20 micron particles and 88% efficiency for 10 micron particles.

Magnatizing a standard oil filter offers a few advantages. One, is it will extend the service life of the filter itself.  Second, it will remove particles generally too small for the standard filter media to trap.  But a similar level filtration can be achieved using a high efficiency oil filter (with synthetic filter media).  The biggest advantage of a high efficiency filter is the clean-up.  The wife won't be yelling about her hand towels...

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Everything I say is fully substantiated by my own opinion.
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