vtail wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:10:If the electromagnet gets powered it opens the exhaust valves. These then could be open at the same time that the intake valves are opened. Test; Start Bike and look at electromagnet under right side of tank with small mechanics mirror and see if it acts up. You might have to look at it it for a little while. Make sure mechanism is free to move. This can be tested by taking the tank off and moving the slide by hand which will open exhaust valve. It's under RH side off the tank.
Yeah, but this problem is not the decomp solenoid or the module. With the chrome cover off, I just started and ran the engine. I watched the actuator arm. After "the big click" the arm moved, then the starter turned, and then the arm went back to the normal position. The arm stayed off until I tried to start it again...which of course, was because the engine died AGAIN
Remember the sequence, the engine starts, idles fine and then starts to sputter and die after a couple minutes? So then I pulled the plug, cleaned it, and started engine again, but this time I set the idle up to 2000 and let it go for a few minutes. It sounded fine. I decided to check the air screw adjustment so I turned the idle back down, and it died. 2 times AGAIN
Yep. Cleaned and adjusted the carb (floats) and everything seems fine. No leaking petc0ck, no overflowing bowl, not even a fuel smell, but the engine only runs a few minutes and then dies with a wet plug...
The symptom is a wet plug and I believe the problem is a worn or broken oil ring. It hard to identify the wetness on the plug, but a fouled plug is usually black anyway. I think the wetness is oil, and I think that it takes a couple minutes for the oil pressure to build up and since the oil ring is NOT wiping the cylinder wall as it should, it takes a minute for oil to foul the plug.
Maybe if I was running it harder down the road, the oil would burn off, but at idle it doesn't.
Remember that I didn't add oil for a cold check of the compression? I don't think I needed to. Might have been a false reading if the cylinder was oily.
Remember how I mentioned the sooty baffle? Bet it wasn't from a really rich mixture.
Remember the wife mentioned that she smelled my exhaust? I just noticed that my oil was a little low today too.
Anyone that has my CD will see a couple piston ring photos where I checked ring to cylinder and ring end gap. Mine were on the high side of all the tolerances. I meant to buy new rings, but being in a hurry I decided to hone the cylinder and see if they'd do okay through winter. (there were other reasons like saving money, etc, too.)
It's my guess that seating the rings just one more time, was one time too many. As Mornhm said, it might be a problem with the wrencher.
So let this be a lesson in WHAT NOT TO DO. Buy new rings. They only cost about $23