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Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation (Read 156 times)
strangeling
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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #15 - 10/30/07 at 13:39:12
 
Hey Odar,

I know I know I was going to do it months ago. I have now ordered the sprockets and chain so they should arrive this week so I should finally have the chain conversion done within the next 2 weeks.  Tongue

Glenn
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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #16 - 10/30/07 at 14:58:56
 
One must also take into account that if you have that taller tire, you already lowered the ratio, so using a 45 rear, or a 16/43 is your best bet in that situation. Thanks for remindfing me of that Barry68v10. I believe that is why Odar went with a 16/43, if I remember correctly.  JK. I agree with Greg on the 4 speed conversion, I think that would be a good place to start because of the difference in the transmission ratios.         Hutch
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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #17 - 10/30/07 at 23:01:43
 
Hutch your memory is correct, when I changed to chain I did have a bigger rear tire 150/80/15 but that was for a short time, I change to original size 140/80/15 Metzler and I still thought that 17/43 was a bit to low in gearing, I will go on with 16/43 as my shoice, even if I can think of change to 17/43 for long rides on the highway, take 15-30 minutes to change.
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Savage_Greg
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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #18 - 10/31/07 at 09:30:01
 
barry68v10 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:10:
Although....if this is primarily for a gear ratio change and you only want a 5% change (16/45 is close to 5%) then I'd just opt for a 140/90/15 tire next time and call it a day, but that's just me   Undecided

But your ratio will change as your tire wears down Tongue

Oops, I guess they all do Roll Eyes
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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #19 - 10/31/07 at 14:37:30
 
17/43 here...I love it.  If you do some simple bolt ons like exhaust and jets, the stoplight power doesn't get missed that much, but being able to cruise 77 or so on the highway feels good (70 mph in MO)

I get nervous when I'm near WOT and don't have that extra squirt of power to get out of a hairy situation.  The chain conversion removed that for me.
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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #20 - 10/31/07 at 16:16:39
 
Savage_Greg wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:10:
But your ratio will change as your tire wears down Tongue

Oops, I guess they all do Roll Eyes


...and if you're "heavier than...um...more swollen than others"  Tongue
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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #21 - 11/03/07 at 06:43:24
 
barry68v10 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:10:
...and if you're "heavier than...um...more swollen than others"  Tongue

I prefer to call it "maturity"...

Gee, maybe I should drop it down to a 13/45 Grin
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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #22 - 11/03/07 at 06:49:45
 
govmule84 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:10:
17/43 here...I love it.  If you do some simple bolt ons like exhaust and jets, the stoplight power doesn't get missed that much, but being able to cruise 77 or so on the highway feels good (70 mph in MO)

I get nervous when I'm near WOT and don't have that extra squirt of power to get out of a hairy situation.  The chain conversion removed that for me.


Yeah, I agree with the improvement at highway speed, but where I was disappointed happened on a 2 lane grade where acceleration wasn't possible without really winding a lower gear.  Also, casually entering a good corner in 4th gear didn't allow the same roll-on power on the other side.

What we need are some serious power upgrades to compensate for the lower RPMs.  Maybe that 700 overbore is the way to go.
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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #23 - 11/05/07 at 09:31:05
 
I've been thinking...

... If I need a spacer at the rear and a spacer at the front sprockets, because the pulleys are "oh-so-much" thicker...

...why not try the "twin ratio" sprocket approach ?

17/45 on the inside    (final drive ratio = 2.64)
14/41 on the outside (final drive ratio = 2.929)

That way, all you have to do is undo the master link, switch sprockets to ride on, loosen/tighten a bit the rear wheel, and you're off !!!

Cheesy  Yes ?  Cheesy

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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #24 - 11/05/07 at 19:29:24
 
mpescatori wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:11:
I've been thinking...

... If I need a spacer at the rear and a spacer at the front sprockets, because the pulleys are "oh-so-much" thicker...

...why not try the "twin ratio" sprocket approach ?

17/45 on the inside    (final drive ratio = 2.64)
14/41 on the outside (final drive ratio = 2.929)

That way, all you have to do is undo the master link, switch sprockets to ride on, loosen/tighten a bit the rear wheel, and you're off !!!

Cheesy  Yes ?  Cheesy

I did not need a spacer at the rear on mine, just bolt to rear hub. The chain runs perfectly straight. I'm not sure where you came up with that???? Did anyone else have to use a REAR spacer on their conversion?????  The only way I could see you would need a rear spacer, is if someone bought a rear sprocket with the correct bolt pattern, but it had the teeth in an offset pattern. With the correct, no off set, sprocket you only need the spacer on the trans sprocket to take up the extra room between the sprocket and the washer and nut.     Hutch
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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #25 - 11/06/07 at 04:49:30
 
mpescatori wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:11:
I've been thinking...

... If I need a spacer at the rear and a spacer at the front sprockets, because the pulleys are "oh-so-much" thicker...

...why not try the "twin ratio" sprocket approach ?

17/45 on the inside    (final drive ratio = 2.64)
14/41 on the outside (final drive ratio = 2.929)

That way, all you have to do is undo the master link, switch sprockets to ride on, loosen/tighten a bit the rear wheel, and you're off !!!

Cheesy  Yes ?  Cheesy


Yeah...I dunno where that idea came from.  You don't need any spacers on the rear and only 1 spacer under the nut on the front.  The sprockets line up just fine, as is.

There is a stock spacer behind the front pulley, but you use that with the new front sprocket.

As for the dual sprocket idea, that is the logical next step and would be neat if someone figured that out.  Chances are that you'd need to separate lengths of chain though.  One for each configuration.  One tooth on the front is equal to about 3 on the back, and 1 tooth on the back would hardly be worth the trouble anyway.
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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #26 - 11/06/07 at 06:22:16
 
I was thinking about the rear spacer thing last night, before I went to sleep, and the only thing I could come up with, was that maybe if you made the mistake of putting the spacer for the front sprocket on first and then the sprocket you would think you needed to space the rear sprocket. As far as the dual sprockets go, I could see one big problem. The shaft on the transmission would not be long enough. You would have to put a spacer between the two front sprockets to keep the chain from hitting the other sprocket. I used a standard width sprocket center for my spacer and had to disc sand the side down slightly to get the splined washer to fit on the shaft. There is no way you could put a spacer between the sprockets and still have enough shaft left to use the washer. I could see no problem with the rear. If you used 2 offset sprockets facing away from each other, but like Greg said, you would need a much smaller rear sprocket to make much of a change, and along with that a shorter chain when you switched to the smaller sprocket. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it would take some work.    Hutch
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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #27 - 11/06/07 at 18:03:22
 
just use two master links.
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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #28 - 11/06/07 at 19:10:13
 
rigidchop wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:11:
just use two master links.
 
I guess you missed my point. The width of 2 sprockets on the transmission shaft takes up all the room without a spacer in between to keep the side of the chain from binding on the larger sprocket when using the smaller sprocket. The transmission shaft would have to be lengthened.    Hutch
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Re: Chain Conversion - Personal Evaluation
Reply #29 - 11/07/07 at 07:20:44
 
Hutch wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:11:
 
I guess you missed my point. The width of 2 sprockets on the transmission shaft takes up all the room without a spacer in between to keep the side of the chain from binding on the larger sprocket when using the smaller sprocket. The transmission shaft would have to be lengthened.    Hutch

I think that he was speaking to me...2 master links to achieve 2 chain lengths.  Which would work too Tongue
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