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Please Help with Stalling problem (Read 5 times)
Steve
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Zen in the art of
motorcycle riding
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Pittsburgh, PA
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Please Help with Stalling problem
09/25/07 at 14:01:23
This is my first post to the boards.
I’m a very excited owner of a 2001 Savage 650.
I purchased this little beauty with 7200 miles for $1500.
This is my first motorcycle – I’ve been riding for about a month.
I’ve noticed a few “oddity’s” that might need a professional fix.
Before I bring the bike in to the mechanic I thought I’d post my problems to this knowledgeable group. I’m hoping to get a little more insight - as well as perhaps a way to phrase the problems to the mechanic.
The first thing I’m noticing is that when I open the bike to about 55 mph (4th or 5th gear) after a little while it seems to stall when I reduce the speed back to 2nd and 1st gear. If I let the bike sit overnight without riding, it seems a little sluggish in the morning but then it’ll be fine.
Why does it want to stall after going at a faster speed?
Another problem is I notice a little bit of black rubber on the metal belt guard. It seems that at a faster speed the rear tire is rubbing against something. I can see the “wear” marks along the wheel.
What’s causing this? Does anyone have any insight?
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
There seems to be some really good people on this fourm.
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May Peace be your guide
steve
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grandpa
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Old but not cold!!!
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Bartlett TN
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Re: Please Help with Stalling problem
Reply #1 -
09/25/07 at 20:02:34
Do a search for the fuel petcock. The petcock is operated by vacuum. A vacuum leak internal or external will cause the valve to not fully open and cause your fuel bowl to run out. Once you slow down the fuel catches back up. Most folks convert it to a manual mode and never have another problem. Other causes could be the fuel strainer dirty (attached to the petcock inside the tank). Two srews to remove it if I remember right to clean it. Carb may need cleaning also. Don't know about the rear wheel. A guess would be to check the rubber cushions where the pulley mounts to the wheel. May be deteriorated and letting the pulley angle under torque.
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Blue '06, seat mod, K&N drop-in filter, desnorkeled, 55 pilot, 152.5 main, 1/3 spacer, dyna muff, factory bug shield, 11.5 Progressive rear shocks, debadged, fork boots, 110/90-19, 140/90-15
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Dr_Jim
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Re: Please Help with Stalling problem
Reply #2 -
09/25/07 at 21:04:22
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«
Last Edit: 12/23/07 at 11:49:48 by Dr_Jim
»
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Steve
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Re: Please Help with Stalling problem
Reply #3 -
10/01/07 at 08:52:26
Hello
Thanks grandpa and Dr_Jim for the helpful information.
Dr_Jim your input was right on in regards to the stalling problem- A simple twist of the carb screw was all that it took. As to the rubbing of the rear wheel- I'm still having an issue with this. It might be beyond my limited scope and tools.
But thank you both for your kind help.
Steve
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May Peace be your guide
steve
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justin_o_guy2
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What happened?
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East Texas, 1/2 dallas/la.
Re: Please Help with Stalling problem
Reply #4 -
10/01/07 at 09:43:09
If you pull the front pulley guard you can use a string to line up the rear wheel drive pulley & the front pulley. Thats how we used to line up big pumps with 70( & longer) foot long belts in the oil filed. There are other ways, but this is a dead certainty.
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The people never give up their liberties but under some delusion.- Edmund Burke.
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SavageWahine
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Re: Please Help with Stalling problem
Reply #5 -
10/01/07 at 10:04:20
Aloha Steve, welcome!
Yep I have the same problem with the back tire rubbing on the belt guard. I'll fix it as soon as I find a single 18 mm socket to loosen up the axle bolt. It seems they only sell them in sets, and I already have a bunch of the other sizes. What's so odd about an 18 mm??
Good luck, hope you get her running smooth.
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You take the blue pill the story ends, you wake up in your bed and believe whatever you want to believe.
You take the red pill, you stay in Wonderland and I show you how deep the rabbit hole goes.
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Max_Morley
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LT650 Luxury Touring
& sidecar rig
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Moses Lake. WA
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Re: Please Help with Stalling problem
Reply #6 -
10/01/07 at 10:34:03
Max says 18mm is a strange size, most are 24 mm for the nut end, other end you can use a punch through the hole in the head. If yours is 18, try to find a close SAE (fractional size) in a 6 point socket and it should work. Trying to think how it could end up being 18mm, maybe a nut off a car that is in transition to metric. Nut should have provision for a cotter key to lock it.
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Max at Thumper Acres. '96 Savage bagger, '03 Savage w/Cozy sidecar for wifeni.
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T Mack 1 - FSO
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a 1986 XLH1100
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Re: Please Help with Stalling problem
Reply #7 -
10/01/07 at 17:52:39
17mm (Bolt head) and 24 mm (Nut). And......If you have the "tool kit" that came with the bike, they're in there. (laugh, laugh, laugh) Tools in the kit are a little too short to break free the nut.......
Auto-zone, Sears.....
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Engineers design things, Technicians make them work.
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30% of being mechanical is confidence/30% is knowing to go slow when needed/30% is looking repeatedly at what you have/10% is dumb luck
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skrapiron -FSO
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Just add coffee..
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Re: Please Help with Stalling problem
Reply #8 -
10/02/07 at 05:13:33
Last evening, all I wanted to do was ride to K-Mart and pick up a package of 1/4" flat washers.
Instead, I spent three and a half hours in my drive way trying to eliminate the tire rub on my rear fender.
As you already know, I move from a 140/80-15 rear tire to a 140/90-15. The additional height had caused rubbing, especially when carrying a passenger or going over a large bump.
What I found was the bag support brackets (that were mounted inside the fender by the previous owner) were rrubbing the side walls of the rear tire.
I tried like crazy to center the tire as best I could. IN every case, I could JUST clear 3 of the 4 rub points.
So.... Out walks wifey-poo. She listens to me grumble for a moment or two and says 'Cant you mount those (the bag support brackets) on the outside?' then walks back in the house.
BINGO.
All I had to do was remove the rear tire, then the fender bolts and slide the bag brackets between the chrome trim and the fender on the OUTSIDE.
I remounted the tire, then used the string method to adjust my center.
Works like a CHAMP...
To center the rear tire, loosen the 24mm lock nut on the belt side of the rear tire. Loosen the 2 12mm locking nuts on the rear adjusters. To move the tire track to the right, turn the right side adjuster screw out and the left side adjuster screw in. Really quite simple once you get started and it pays off big time!
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Everything I say is fully substantiated by my own opinion.
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