Got the Allen wrench, hope I'm doing the right thing in removing it!

slavy wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:09:

lower triple tree bolts??
Is that the bolt on the bottom triangular thing that holds the fork?
I did remove the fork caps first, that was the easy part!
According to the manual I need to remove the screw underneath the turn signal. That's quite impossible at the moment because it was so stuck I shredded the head!
I did remove the Allan bolt on the tree thing. I'll try the WD40 now, because that shiny thing sure is stuck!
So why do I need to remove the Allan bolt underneath the bottom of the fork?
I am not able to do this, utterly stuck!

Also I don't quite get why you mean, you said, "First thing, loosen the 2  fork caps." but then you say, "now You should be able to hold the fork cap with the wrench and spin the fork leg with the other hand." Didn't I just loosen those? (actually I took them off). Was I supposed to tighten them again after?

Also I don't quite understand what you mean with: You might have to push on the cap from underneath to pull it out, because there is a rubber O-ring that will resist .
Push what cap , and where from underneath?

The caps are the 24 (I think) MM hex units that sit on top the top triple tree (yes you are correct, the triangular shaped parts are triple trees). I think the axle nut wrench in the tool kit fits it. Your upper shock tube sits against a shoulder machined in the upper one and is clamped in place by that large threaded nut.  It is also held in place by the clamping action on the lower triple tree. I usually remove only one tube at a time, be careful as the oil will drain out if you let the upper end get too low until it is over a pail/pan. It has to slide down out of both triple trees before you can get it out. I usually drain it and then invert it on the sharpened end of a broom handle to keep the inner part from spinning. The bolt you will turn with the allen wrench is held in place with loctite also so breaking it loose will be difficult. The the rubber boot comes off, the snap ring (retaining ring - use a screwdriver tip to push one of the ends toward the shinny tube and lift it up and the ring will wind out careful don't sctratch the tube) then pull (this means yank it a couple three times at least and it will pull the seal - you will need some help or vice for this part) the inner tube out of the outer tube and the seal will be removed. Clean all parts in solvent or whatever you have available. There will be lots of gray sludge in the bottom of the outer tube to clean out. Once it is out. reassemble the inner and outer tube using some lock tite on the threads after you have cleaned them with brake clean or alcohol. slide the seal down and using a hammer and flat tip punch carefully work it down a little at a time until it is seated and you can reinstall the snap ring and dust seal. Seal lip goes dwon toward the fluid and part # goes up.  I usually put the inner tube back in place and then tighten the lower clamp. Then add the required amount of fluid. 447 ml per leg of 15 W according to my notes last time I did it. Reinstall the spring, washer and spacer and ever so carefully so as to not cross thead the big retaining nut - re install it. One done and on to the next. If you get stuck and want to call my number is 509-764-5593 PDST as the Savage Tech is camping this weekend. Max

I got it!! Thanks guys, I just got back after finally figuring out that there was a little Allan bolt on the turn signal that I needed to loosen up!! I guess I should have asked earlier what a pinch bolt was. I did not want to damage the cap threads but I screwed them back in to almost 1/4 inch, and then I lightly tapped down on the cap )after putting a ton of WD-40 in the cracks and sure enough, the darn tube slid down!! I took the whole thing out and poured it into a pan so I know how much new oil to put back in. A shiny cylinder tube and washer and long spring came out, and the oil of course!
I have a woodworking bench with wooden block clamp, I figured I can clamp the fork and try and tap the ALAN loose.
I'm going to read all of your guyses instructions about 20 times until I've got it figured out what you mean. If I have any questions I'll holler!

Demin wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:09:

Wished I'd waited for your answer. I was too impatient!!
Have to do this before all the hardware stores close! And I'm stubborn, like to figure things out on my own, and get pissed of I cant'!  
Your help is much appreciated though!! Thanks

Anytime

Re locktite. Many Auto Parts stores will have a little squeeze pac display (like a lens cleaner or hand cleaner you get with ribs) , you only need a drop so no need to buy the bottle, stick or gel size unless you need to as it isn't cheap.  You want the red stuff, but blue will probably do in a pinch.
I like to use Stoddard solvent but it is hard to find in most places now. Used to be in the good old days we had it it the gas station tanks along with the various oils we but in bottles to fill the oil burning leaking vehicles. I get it now at CENEX a large farm supplier.  !!! Please do not use gasloine !!! Aerosol Brake cleaner from the parts store will work but you may want to wear rubber gloves and make sure it doesn't spray back onto you or the wind blow it your direction. Try to get the non-clorinated kind, but either will do.

Put the required amount of fluid in, 447 ml, not necessarily what you took out as some may have leaked out or the PO (previous owner) may have overfilled it. Also some may stay inside until you separate the inner and outer tube and shock parts.  There is a measurement down from the top also, but when I did mine recently, the 447 put it very close. I have a beaker I use for measuring, one of the glass measuring cups will work until you drop it. Remember a little of the oil will cling to the side of the cup so maybe start at 450 and you'll be OK.

As it comes apart try to lay the parts out in order on newspaper or shop rags as you go, clean them and then put on a clean paper in the same order. Makes it easier and quicker to get it back together correctly.

When you start assembly, use the broom handle again to center the retainer that the allen bolt screws into. It wants to move off to one side. Have good flashlight handy if you need to peer down the hole to line it up.

Again, call before you get so flustrated you break something. Max