Got my new Maxxis Classic Tires and EBC brakes front and back from Biker Bandit.  Around $218 total.
Check around stealerships for mounting and balancing. I was going to do brakes myself. Cheapest was $45 a wheel if wheel off the bike, so I stay up at night and pull my wheels. When I pick up my wheels the guy says I should have my wheel bearings done. How much is that I ask. $75 bucks a wheel plus bearings total $225. I says I'll think about it, Shopped around and got them done for $148. Then I spent a few days trying to polish  wheels and spacers and stuff. Took frickin forever, I'll save spokes for winter down time as it was just taking too long. So I start putting all my stuff back together and am feeling really psyched because the bike is gonna look awesome with the new tires and stuff, when I was putting the drive belt back on and spun the rear tire a little, I heard a noise coming from the front pulley. I had a sick feeling in my stomach, and sure enough the pulley was loose and totallly bunged. I had replaced my belt about 3000 miles ago. I had torqued that sucker down to 80 pounds and the lock nut was bent over but apparently not enough as it had backed out. I'm definitely slapping myself for not checking more thouroughly. The wife who had been riding on the back said she thought she heard some noise but I never did. The driveshaft looks questionable as it is bunged some also, I won't know if it will hold up until I get a new pulley. My question is, do you think a new pulley and maybe some judicious use of a tube of Liquid Metal, that it all might hold together and not slop around. I can't even think of what it might cost me to have the driveshaft replaced. It's not something I really want to tackle.  Unless no real special tools are required and some of you think it's easy.

BikerBandit:
Drive Pulley
Oil Seal  (needed replacing anyway as it was seeping oil).
O-ring
Locknut
$101
This I can do. I'm ordering the parts today.

Driveshaft
$93
replacement
Labor? No idea.

I'm bumming now as the bike has been down for a week already and now this. Stupid #$%^& goldang son of a blankety heck!

h3ll I'm confused - had a lose front pulley my self that ate it self - around $50 for a new one - dinged the output shaft a little but not much - look here -

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=RubberSideDown;action=display;n...

Guess I should take a peek at mine soon.  I haven't heard any noise but checking should be pretty straightforward and worth the small effort.

Carl wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:07:


This is encouraging, as I'm hoping Liquid Steel or Plastic Steel will help alleviate any deformity of the splines on the driveshaft. This painful lesson just proves that if you're going to do you're own mechanical work, try to be more thourough and methodical as any good shop should be. Which means check the torque on the nuts and bolts occasionally.
I mean me of course , not anybody here that may have suffered a similar problem.

Well that just sucks... It ain't pretty, that's for sure. That job is going to be expensive on several accounts: The labor is very high; because it is a total engine and transmission remove; teardown, with crankcase split, rebuild what needs it, and re-install engine/trans. That's bad enough, but as you found with the wheel bearings, any time you are that far into something, you need to do everything you can while you have it torn down.

Every other gear, bearing, shim etc... etc... needs inspection for R&R. You sure don't want to pay the labor to go into it twice because of some $5 bushing that wasn't replaced the first time. And all those little $5-$10 seals and bushing start to add up. You need to search around for a local independent shop with a good reputation. They might be able to make the cost bearable. Any authorized dealer is going to break it off in you on this kind of job.

Otherwise, your options are to DIY if you have the time, tools, ability and inclination. Or... find another engine/trans, Or... sell the bike whole, or part it out yourself. Sorry to be the bearer of such lousy news.

This is one continuous problem with low-end bikes, or cars, or boats... whatever. It only takes a repair representing a minor percentage of the vehicle's value to turn it into a parts donor vehicle. If it was a $15k Harley, or something else, there would be no doubt about doing thousands of dollars of work to get it back on the road.

Thanks for your replies. The pricing that I'm getting from dealers is for 8-13 hours labor at 75$ an hour. (yeesh!)  :'(. parts are going to be another $200. I'd be basically buying my bike all over again. I'm going to give it another shot with some other epoxy weld products before I give up. If that fails then maybe I might try to fix it myself over the winter. I just can't justify that kind of expense.  :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(

I have a drive pulley and drive shaft for a good deal.  If you are interested send me a PM.

LANCER wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:08:



Thanks Lancer for the offer, I'm going to try another product called J.B. Weld that looks a lot stronger than the Liquid Steel putty that I tried. If that doesn't work out, I may be talking to you. I just don't have any extra funds right now.