SuzukiSavage.com - White spacer again...

Tekumseh

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White spacer again...
07/25/07 at 07:11:28

I'm not a mechanic at all. So I start with this question:
Can I reach this spacer from the side of the carb, or do I have to remove the tank to get it from upside?

When you guys say remove half of the white spacer, how do you split it? Cut by knife in the middle or what?

My Savage is "coughing" when it's warm, and I accellerate. This means if I go over 80 km/h, it takes 5 minutes before it starts coughing and backfiring. The front of the exhaust is blue and gold-colored...

Please explain in "bookish" english, cause I'm from Norway. Thanx!

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Balderdash

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Re: White spacer again...
Reply #1 - 07/25/07 at 07:28:34

Not only will you have to take the tank off, you will likely have to take the carburator out of the engine as well...

When messing with the white washer (or the white washer mod) they are talking about taking the plastic washer in your hand (part 6 in your diagram if I can see it right) and then rubbing it accross some sand paper on a table top until the washer is only half as thick as it was when you started.

Then putting the plastic washer back where it was so it is now a 1/2 washer.

BEWARE; since this is a one way modification (you can't go back to original if you mess it up), instead of sanding the washer down I recommend that you buy a couple of #4 washers at the hardware store and use them in place of the white washer, that way if you want to go back to what it was before you started you can simply put the unaltered white washer back in and take the #4's out.

Another option to improving low speed gas flow is to buy a larger pilot jet ( #18 on your diagram I think, I switched to a 55 pilot jet myself) and replace the original pilot jet with that instead of messing with the white washer. (additionally, the rejet can be done while the carburator is still on the bike, making it a quicker and easier fix, but it will cost you the money of a new jet ($6-10 US)

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verslagen1

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Re: White spacer again...
Reply #2 - 07/25/07 at 07:38:40

To get at the white spacer, you need to get the top of the carb off, item 13.

Remove half of the white spacer by making it thinner. Someone said it's 2.5mm. So it should be sanded down untill it is 1.3mm thick. But Believe they said the correct thickness was 1.5mm thick.

While you have the slide out (item 2) clean the barrel (cylinder). It should be silver, bare metal. And wipe off any finger prints prior to replacing it.

Becareful with the rubber parts they are expensive to replace. If you are not sure of the cleaners you are using and how they will affect rubber don't use them.

You might be able to get the top off by turning the carb to the side. I know you can do this for the bottom, not sure about the top Grin

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Savage_Rob Serious Thumper Alliance Member Offline Mechanically Inclined Amateur Posts: 6972 Texas (Dallas area) Gender:	Re: White spacer again... Reply #3 - 07/25/07 at 08:46:03 I was able to do it without removing the carb. I did take the tank off but I'm thinking you might be able to avoid that also if you simply loosen the clamps and rotate the carb sideways.
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Baldeagle

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Re: White spacer again...
Reply #4 - 07/26/07 at 19:00:20

When I did my spacer mod after reading all about it here, be carefull with the screws getting the top off. If you mess one(or two) up have a pair of needle nose pliers handy. I did but had the sizes to replace on hand. Don't remeber what size they are but someone on here will know. I disgarded the white washer and used a 3/32nd washer. Removed the plug and
turned the pilot out almost two full turns and adjusted the idle scew.

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verslagen1 YaBB Moderator ModSquad Offline Where there's a will, I want to be in it. Posts: 28886 L.A. California Gender:	Re: White spacer again... Reply #5 - 07/26/07 at 19:08:17 You probably mean needle nose vise grips. Sometimes the screws stick so bad you can round off the screwdriver recess. Lock the vise grips on the head of the screw and you can get it out. Look for some stainless steel socket head screws for replacements. put them in with a little anti-seize.
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skrapiron -FSO

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Re: White spacer again...
Reply #6 - 07/26/07 at 19:28:30

" Another option to improving low speed gas flow is to buy a larger pilot jet ( #18 on your diagram I think, I switched to a 55 pilot jet myself) and replace the original pilot jet with that instead of messing with the white washer. (additionally, the rejet can be done while the carburator is still on the bike, making it a quicker and easier fix, but it will cost you the money of a new jet ($6-10 US)"

How would I do that?

I can see the float bowl is accessible from underneath, but my concern is that once I drop the float bowl, that the float and associated components may come tumbling out....

I have already done the spacer mod. Would it benefit me to go up to a 53 or 54 pilot jet as well? I have already drilled out the brass plug and reset the pilot jet mixture.

With the half spacer and tweeked air mixture screw, , my throttle performance is much better and the surging is gone. But under light throttle, it still feels like it's bogging down (like it's starving itself for gas still?)

How much benefit would I see from a 53 or 54 pilot jet and a 150 or 152 main jet (all else is stock)?

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mark_k

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Re: White spacer again...
Reply #7 - 07/27/07 at 09:04:42

Lancer posted a good review of carb tuning complete with the order of control of the various jets and needles as it relates the the throttle opening. To give a short synopsis, idle mixture screw at idle and just off idle followed by pilot jet, slide needle, and main jet. If you are close to 3 turns out on the idle mixture screw, you may benefit from going to a larger pilot jet, then decreasing the number of turns on the idle mixture screw. The Mikuni pilot jets are in increments of 2.5. Ie 50, 52.5, 55 etc. Available at either your local stealership or www.denniskirk.com for $5.99 USD. Holes in the pilot jet seem to add the equivalent of a 2.5 increase. A 52.5 without holes will seem to behave like a 50 with holes.

A big help with the screws on the carb are the impactors, as the action of the impactor holds the bit tip in the screw. Using one of these, Ryobi, Hitachi will help keep the screws from stripping.

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Balderdash

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Re: White spacer again...
Reply #8 - 07/27/07 at 10:09:46

skrapiron -FSO wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:07:

I can see the float bowl is accessible from underneath, but my concern is that once I drop the float bowl, that the float and associated components may come tumbling out....

The only parts that will come down when you take off the bowl are the four screws from the corners and the cover and gasket seal. The float and screws are all attached to the carb body, you have to unscrew them to get them to come off, they won't fall off (you could drop a jet while unscrewing it when it is upside down though, so be careful about that).

skrapiron -FSO wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:07:

I have already done the spacer mod. Would it benefit me to go up to a 53 or 54 pilot jet as well?

I personally don't think you would need to do both the white washer mod and a much larger pilot jet. I use a 55 pilot with holes but I left the white washer alone, if I did mod that I would have to go to a smaller pilot jet I think...

But I'm not riding your bike, you are. If you still think you need more adjustment down there you could do more on the white washer or the pilot screw change. Maybe someone who has done both at the same time will chip in here and tell us what they experienced

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