justin_o_guy wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:


What?  And give away all my secrets?

I use a Canon EOS 10D.  I wish I had the newer version, but what can I say.

Thank you btw.

Feel free to see the website I'm setting up by clicking the link in my sig line...still has work to be done, but you'll get the idea.

I jumpstarted it.   Had a really weak start on it's own legs and died.  Ran a good bit longer when it was hooked up to the car.

Is the pilot screw hard to remove with a screw extractor?  I don't know if my new one will be in the mail today or not, but if it is I'd like to get it replaced as soon as I can, just don't know if the screw extractor will work well in brass.

Also, if the needle seats too low, would that make for a difficult start?  I added 2.6mm of spacer(wire insulation), but don't know if that would have any affect at all on the starting/idle.  My understanding was that the needle was midrange only.

I did have to add a bit of choke on the starts this morning, which leads me to believe I'm about right on the spacer.

Well, since I've been meaning to do it for a while, I downsized the main jet to a 150.  Works great.

Got Glenn started and running, I had been flooded, in addition to a bad ground on the coil and a float that was twisted.  

I beleive my float needle needs replacing, has a faint ring around it and seems to be allowing fuel to flow after shut-off.  What doesn't help is a leaky petc0ck.  Luckily, the float needle isn't letting enough flow to fill the crankcase, and the petc0ck leak is a drop every now and then.  But if you park it for 30 minutes to check something in a book, drops really add up.

The pilot screw is stripped all to hell.  When I got the bike it was stripped, and I didn't help that any.  New one is already in the mail.  

If you overtighten the pilot screw, can you break it on the inside?

I ask that question because Glenn is idling like a top fuel dragster, which is cool sounding, but not cool.  Plug is, oddly, not reading rich.  Then again, I've been checking the plug after interstate rides on that new 150 main jet.  

I'm thinking leaner on the pilot jet might help, but until I can get the new pilot screw in and see if the mixture is all that's wrong, it'd be kinda useless for me to re-jet.

I got home at 5:30 yesterday and didn't get the bike going until 12:05.  I've traced wiring, replaced grounds, drained the float bowl about a million times, and re-adjusted my float height more times than I care to say.  Rode 60 miles with three stops after Glenn started.  Only ran into one issue, but that was mentioned above.  The solution was pretty easy.

Update:

had the bike running over the weekend, albeit with a really horrid idle, sounded like a top fuel dragster.

Got back home ok, no worries.  Had to drain the float bowl, clear out the cylinder, etc to start it.

Got a new float needle in it from a parts bin at the local indy cycle shop.  Adjusted the float to spec.  WooHoo, no overflow sitting still.  Turns out a lowered float with a bad float needle will still overflow.  Hope that holds true.

Removed stock airbox, Uni-filtered it, re-ran the wiring.  

Turns out, just in case anyone was wondering, there are two sets of white and two sets of black Molexes with only one lead inside.  

Drained my battery figuring that one out.

Bike is....together for me.  No tank, saddle, battery, etc.  

After the battery charges overnight on the trickle down, I'll be giving it another shot in the AM.  

Had to take the carb to a machine shop to get the idle air adjustment screw replaced.  

Good thing, too.

If it took a professional machinist 45 minutes to replace the screw, I had no business even attempting it.

Hopefully the new screw, plus my new-found realization that the choke has even ONE more notch to go into, plus the CORRECT spacer on the CORRECT side(thanks previous owner), and the spring/washer working correctly to seat the needle down....well, you get the idea.   Been a heckuva week.

Turns out:

Problem WAS invisible.

If you didn't pay attention to the little black O-Ring around the needle valve assembly.

This needs to be added to everyone's archive of knowledge for future overflow issues where needle/petc0ck are not the issue.

My little O-Ring was worn smooth with the brass of the needle valve assembly.

Last time I cleaned it, turns out I removed the little bit of rubber that was sealing it.

HELP! o-ring assortments do have the necassary o-ring to replace it.  Just make sure it's gas-friendly, not oil-friendly.

Glenn is now running perfect on idle, lean in the middle(stock spacer is in the CORRECT position now, have to get some washers and tune there), and perfect on top end.  

Well, probably could be richer on the top end.  

Schedule 40 vent pipe at 1.5 inches has the perfect OD on couplings to mount into the carb for a turned out intake.  Pictures will follow sometime in the next 24 hours.

As a side note, if you put 1/2 gallon of gas in the tank and remove the screen from the petc0ck, then drain the carb four times to find out the o-ring is screwy, you don't have much gas left in the tank.  That's a good time to have friends who are awake at 11:30 PM and don't mind bringing you gasoline and Dr. Pepper.

Also, if you have a tube in your ear, have someone else blow through the gas line to see if the float needle seats properly.  Otherwise, the air leaking through the tube in your ear feels oddly normal, along with the air leaking through the gas line because that O-ring is shot.